02-07-2025, 01:00 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-07-2025, 01:05 PM by Mike Watterson.)
In my last place we needed fast turn around of UHF (800 to 950 MHz) PCBs and used a kit based mill. PC controller and bigger version of a Dremill as power tool. An included utility converted the plot files from Eagle for the PC controller application. We used a retired "Pizza box" 19″ rack mount "server" as the PC.
Steps:
1: Buy a suitable piece of material and fix it to bed. Then mill it.
2: Tape board to alignment marks and drill two peg holes through board and base
3: Mill one side. Avoid large empty areas in design. Might need two mills for performance. Smallest one for tracks between legs or SO devices.
4: Other side.
5: Drill holes. May need bit changes. Used SMD as much as possible.
I gave up etching in 1980 and used bureau in Ireland till 1990s. My first etched board (1970?) used mum's nail varnish as resist.
I've done a lot of construction on track side of vero/stripboard with often an added copper ground plane. SMD and regular parts (bent to sit on track). Also slit track at the holes to have x2 tracks for SO packages.
I'd never etch again. Even in 1990s I did some consultancy for local idiots with bubble tanks. I told them to outsource that. There are actually good local ones for volume. China if only wanting 5 to 10, which is cheaper than making one badly at home.
Online sellers with PTH etc and track widths infeasible for home etching. I'd only consider mill solution again, for same reason, experimenting with printed coils, striplines and capacitors. RF from 500 MHz to 20 GHz. Even at 800 MHz using 0.8mm is better and above 2GHz approx more exotic materials than regular fibre glass.
EDIT:
Last manual taped / "letraset" style symbols was 1991, a double sided Z80 single Eurocard controller. All PCBs after that used CAD (FutureNet, Orcad, Eagle and two others). Schematic to PCB checking of net-list and parts list is a must!
Steps:
1: Buy a suitable piece of material and fix it to bed. Then mill it.
2: Tape board to alignment marks and drill two peg holes through board and base
3: Mill one side. Avoid large empty areas in design. Might need two mills for performance. Smallest one for tracks between legs or SO devices.
4: Other side.
5: Drill holes. May need bit changes. Used SMD as much as possible.
I gave up etching in 1980 and used bureau in Ireland till 1990s. My first etched board (1970?) used mum's nail varnish as resist.
I've done a lot of construction on track side of vero/stripboard with often an added copper ground plane. SMD and regular parts (bent to sit on track). Also slit track at the holes to have x2 tracks for SO packages.
I'd never etch again. Even in 1990s I did some consultancy for local idiots with bubble tanks. I told them to outsource that. There are actually good local ones for volume. China if only wanting 5 to 10, which is cheaper than making one badly at home.
Online sellers with PTH etc and track widths infeasible for home etching. I'd only consider mill solution again, for same reason, experimenting with printed coils, striplines and capacitors. RF from 500 MHz to 20 GHz. Even at 800 MHz using 0.8mm is better and above 2GHz approx more exotic materials than regular fibre glass.
EDIT:
Last manual taped / "letraset" style symbols was 1991, a double sided Z80 single Eurocard controller. All PCBs after that used CAD (FutureNet, Orcad, Eagle and two others). Schematic to PCB checking of net-list and parts list is a must!
