14-10-2024, 09:22 AM
Hi Ed, Thanks for your input.
I agree with what you say about rudder controls. I think that a novice could get into trouble very quickly with their typical over control and I have seen very negative opinions in at least one book. I do get some feel for them though as with the types I often fly (or at least attempt to) it would be difficult or maybe even impossible. Taking off in a taildragger being one and the other, strictly speaking not a rudder, is a helicopter with it's rotor torque control. I know that rudder control is useful in a larger aeroplane in times of an engine failure and the resultant asymetric thrust but, although the simulator can invoke such a failure or I could just stop an engine, I haven't the time and don't use it enough to get that far. Another point for realism is also with the rudder pedals I bought is that they have toe brakes. These can be accessed via the keyboard but it would be tricky and very jerky particularly if I was trying to taxi in an aeroplane which relied on the brakes for steering.
With trim, now that I have enough controls to readily access it's adjustment I am finding out how useful it is. It was always possible to access it in a good aircraft model via the mouse and the actual cockpit controls but having it readily to hand is more useful. I have just got to be aware that it's easy to accidently knock the control slider. Hence my visual indication being useful. Some aircraft are more sensitive than others but elevator trim, at least, is a big boost to realism (as is being able to control multiple engines individually). Another point that I have recently found, and still need to research, is trim control in helicopters. I found that in the one I am now having some success in flying that my standard controls setup I use then modify for individual aircraft which has trim controls programmed the (for aircraft in the sim) elevator trim can be used on the helicopter. Because of the way normal simulator joysticks (at least for home ue) are made there is a fairly strong centerind spring. Flying a helicopter with one as standard is very tiring as you work under constant pressure. The cheap option which is used is to tie up the spring (the better one to buy a dedicated joystic) but I use it for aircraft too. I found my trim control actually makes things far easier and even using a gross change in trim can make all the difference. As implemented in the simulator the trim controls are pretty much as in the actual aircraft. In the more complex systems like on modern airliners designers strive to make things realistic but I don't fly these so am not sure how good they are. As one designer of military helicopter models pointed out, modern aircraft use multiple computer systems for control of functions. A home PC is not going to get anywhere near that (or in words to that effect). I think it's amazing just how good it is though.
My home made controls just provide the appropriate analogue and switch inputs that can be configured in the flight simulator software. The analogue requirements for throttles, propeller pitch, trims and helicopter collective, for example, can be accomodated via the slider controls I have. Obviously things happen in real time so a vague or complex operation is not good for frame rate, hence I keep it as simple as I can. The flight sim circuitry can be divided in two as each processor unit is identical and essential seperate. It operates, from the programming point of view, as two seperate joysticks. Each has a number of slider, or rotary, potentiometers (10kOhm) connected between 5v and ground with the slider connected to one of the analogue inputs of the Arduino. There it is converted to a digital value (0 to 5v -> 0 to 1023) and relayed to the computer and sim software which accepts it as a variable value. These values can be programmed for function, as required, in the sim. For instance a slider could be used for throttle (single specified or there is an option for all), a specific trim, or even a single access of joystick control if so wished. A point to note that multiple controls for one function could be an issue but the sim does warn against it if trying to program. The push button controls (matrixed) are decoded and relayed to the computer then sim software for configuration as required. The push buttons are just basic push buttons. The two mode switches which I have are just read on a data port for 1 / 0 to determine program flow.
As such, from the above, the actual circuitry is very basic and straight textbook. The only real change is the trim indication which takes input tapped off the sliders of the relevant pots to an analogue (A/D) port on a smaller Arduino Nano board and gives a displayed, on LCD, output from 0 to 9.9 dependant on the relative slider / pot position. I also need to point out though that although I use it for trim, with the associated input to the simulator, it could be used for any analogue control. It's only function determined in the simulator.
With the above in mind, I don't actually have a circuit diagram. I have a few little diagrams showing basic functionality such as how the switch matrixes are wired with additional diodes to avoid multiple switching issues, and I have wiring colour details etc to the connectors but the main information is essentially documented in the software (Arduino) and the simulator configuration. I considered that combining that information and the photographs were enough for essential maintenance. An actual diagram would looks quite large but it's all simple stuff. If you would like more specific detail please let me know.
Thank you for you hints on the radios and offers. I have done some extensive reasearch, particularly on 'World Radio History' site and have lot's of PDF's of old magazines. books etc. I do have quite a few bits and pieces too. I did make an example of the regen radio's a few years back so have a little experience, even in coilmaking. I do have some Litz wire but the coloured older stuff may be an issue if I get a problem. I have an issue. The one intervalve transformer I have does seem Ok. It's label was missing so I have hooked it up to a generator and checked out it's turns ratio. With the old coils I have, all seem Ok but the proof of the pudding may well be in the eating.
Tracy
I agree with what you say about rudder controls. I think that a novice could get into trouble very quickly with their typical over control and I have seen very negative opinions in at least one book. I do get some feel for them though as with the types I often fly (or at least attempt to) it would be difficult or maybe even impossible. Taking off in a taildragger being one and the other, strictly speaking not a rudder, is a helicopter with it's rotor torque control. I know that rudder control is useful in a larger aeroplane in times of an engine failure and the resultant asymetric thrust but, although the simulator can invoke such a failure or I could just stop an engine, I haven't the time and don't use it enough to get that far. Another point for realism is also with the rudder pedals I bought is that they have toe brakes. These can be accessed via the keyboard but it would be tricky and very jerky particularly if I was trying to taxi in an aeroplane which relied on the brakes for steering.
With trim, now that I have enough controls to readily access it's adjustment I am finding out how useful it is. It was always possible to access it in a good aircraft model via the mouse and the actual cockpit controls but having it readily to hand is more useful. I have just got to be aware that it's easy to accidently knock the control slider. Hence my visual indication being useful. Some aircraft are more sensitive than others but elevator trim, at least, is a big boost to realism (as is being able to control multiple engines individually). Another point that I have recently found, and still need to research, is trim control in helicopters. I found that in the one I am now having some success in flying that my standard controls setup I use then modify for individual aircraft which has trim controls programmed the (for aircraft in the sim) elevator trim can be used on the helicopter. Because of the way normal simulator joysticks (at least for home ue) are made there is a fairly strong centerind spring. Flying a helicopter with one as standard is very tiring as you work under constant pressure. The cheap option which is used is to tie up the spring (the better one to buy a dedicated joystic) but I use it for aircraft too. I found my trim control actually makes things far easier and even using a gross change in trim can make all the difference. As implemented in the simulator the trim controls are pretty much as in the actual aircraft. In the more complex systems like on modern airliners designers strive to make things realistic but I don't fly these so am not sure how good they are. As one designer of military helicopter models pointed out, modern aircraft use multiple computer systems for control of functions. A home PC is not going to get anywhere near that (or in words to that effect). I think it's amazing just how good it is though.
My home made controls just provide the appropriate analogue and switch inputs that can be configured in the flight simulator software. The analogue requirements for throttles, propeller pitch, trims and helicopter collective, for example, can be accomodated via the slider controls I have. Obviously things happen in real time so a vague or complex operation is not good for frame rate, hence I keep it as simple as I can. The flight sim circuitry can be divided in two as each processor unit is identical and essential seperate. It operates, from the programming point of view, as two seperate joysticks. Each has a number of slider, or rotary, potentiometers (10kOhm) connected between 5v and ground with the slider connected to one of the analogue inputs of the Arduino. There it is converted to a digital value (0 to 5v -> 0 to 1023) and relayed to the computer and sim software which accepts it as a variable value. These values can be programmed for function, as required, in the sim. For instance a slider could be used for throttle (single specified or there is an option for all), a specific trim, or even a single access of joystick control if so wished. A point to note that multiple controls for one function could be an issue but the sim does warn against it if trying to program. The push button controls (matrixed) are decoded and relayed to the computer then sim software for configuration as required. The push buttons are just basic push buttons. The two mode switches which I have are just read on a data port for 1 / 0 to determine program flow.
As such, from the above, the actual circuitry is very basic and straight textbook. The only real change is the trim indication which takes input tapped off the sliders of the relevant pots to an analogue (A/D) port on a smaller Arduino Nano board and gives a displayed, on LCD, output from 0 to 9.9 dependant on the relative slider / pot position. I also need to point out though that although I use it for trim, with the associated input to the simulator, it could be used for any analogue control. It's only function determined in the simulator.
With the above in mind, I don't actually have a circuit diagram. I have a few little diagrams showing basic functionality such as how the switch matrixes are wired with additional diodes to avoid multiple switching issues, and I have wiring colour details etc to the connectors but the main information is essentially documented in the software (Arduino) and the simulator configuration. I considered that combining that information and the photographs were enough for essential maintenance. An actual diagram would looks quite large but it's all simple stuff. If you would like more specific detail please let me know.
Thank you for you hints on the radios and offers. I have done some extensive reasearch, particularly on 'World Radio History' site and have lot's of PDF's of old magazines. books etc. I do have quite a few bits and pieces too. I did make an example of the regen radio's a few years back so have a little experience, even in coilmaking. I do have some Litz wire but the coloured older stuff may be an issue if I get a problem. I have an issue. The one intervalve transformer I have does seem Ok. It's label was missing so I have hooked it up to a generator and checked out it's turns ratio. With the old coils I have, all seem Ok but the proof of the pudding may well be in the eating.
Tracy
