UNITRA Figaro Special- how to remove w/c switch button?

[Old Sparky]

Further progress. I've glued the broken 'fork' on the switch lever, though I may have to reinforce it. I've removed the innards from the contact cooled rectifier, and fitted a 1N4007 with a 100 ohm 2W resistor in series inside the case, which maintains the original appearance. Upon refitting the rectifier to the chassis, it occured to me that the cathode (o/p) terminal is very close to the tag on the mains TX which supplies the rectifiier with AC. Not, IMHO, a good idea, so I may turn the rectifier round the other way, and reroute the lead from it to the reservoir capacitor, to which it will then be closer. Admittedly this will place the rectifier terminal fairly close to the pilot bulb holder, but not so near as to be a problem, hopefully. Any opinions as to whether this is a good idea or not?

[Old Sparky]

I now have the Figaro up and running. From a mains i/p of 240vac, I get 180vac at the junction of the 100 ohm resistor and 1N4007 anode. DC at the cathode is 205v, and at the smoothing cap is 174v. The series resistor (R17) is 1k2, whch gives a calculated HT Current of ca. 26mA. I replaced the original 300 ohm ECL82 cathode resistor (R16) with a 330 ohm 1 watt type, the terminal having pulled off the original. After having run the set, out of it's cabinet for about 2 hours
the above readings were still the same, with no sign of any overheating, increased hum or other distress, so I now only have to repair the w/c switch 'fork', and all should be well. My only query relates to the 2 watt 100 ohm resistor I fitted in series with the 1N4007 rectifier diode, and it is that, from the above measurements (made with a M3800 DMM incidentally) 35 volts is being dropped acroos the 100 ohm resistor, i.e. 350mA is being drawn, which is 12.25 watts, meaning I should use a lower value series resistor, which would raise the HT ( No voltage readings are given on the service sheet, but I would have expected the HT to be nearer, say, 230v than 200v) I'll check the curren drain through the 400mA mains fuse later just to confirm. ( I've just realised that, by measuring the drop from the mains input to the rectifier, I'm including the heater & bulb current in the reading, whereas only the HT current flows through the rectifier and it's series resistor. This would be no more than about 50mA, drawn from a tap on the autotransformer, so maybe I'l leave the 100 ohm 2 watt resistor in place! (Only been doing this job for 44 years!!!)

[Refugee]

The DMM will give an odd reading there due to the current peaks in the rectifier charging the capacitor.
A false high is most likely there.

[Old Sparky]

The DMM will give an odd reading there due to the current peaks in the rectifier charging the capacitor.
A false high is most likely there.

Point taken. I'll check the readings again with an analogue meter, but, as note in the previous post, I realised that I was measuring the voltage drop from the mains input to the rectifier anode. However the rectifier is fed from a tap on the autotransformer, so only about 40mA or so (the HT current) passes through the series resistor. My calculation included the Valve & pilot lamp currents as well. As I said, I've only been servicing Radios, etc., for 44 years!!'