Union Jubilee Clutch.

[AlanBeckett]

Have a play David, you've nothing to lose, and I've already enjoyed your PCBs and boxes so there should be some payback.

Alan

[camallison]

For schematics and PCB layout, I am trying the freeware lite edition of Eagle, available here: http://www.cadsoftusa.com/download-eagle...anguage=en

As ever, it is a steep learning curve, but worth it in the long run, if many schematics and boards are to be attempted. They have an extensive library of device outlines and pinouts too.

Colin

[Retired]

Hi,

Many thanks Big Al for adding the drawings. They certainly look a lot better than many black lines on a white background. I'm slowly (very) catching you up Alan but I'll keep practicing. I thought you only ever used Auto-Cad Alan?

Last night I played around with Solid Edge Free 2D and also watched a long tutorial video on YouTube. SolidEdge is a lot different to EMS CAD but now having gained some experience using EMS CAD I feel more comfortable in stepping up to Solid Edge because I understand some of the basic commands. As a complete novice it used to infuriate me in that I could not even use CAD to draw a single straight line; every time I clicked the mouse it added yet another line; to add to my misery each of these lines used to be a zig-zag resembling the teeth of a saw blade.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=okBIf_34GPk&feature=endscreen

I'm only a step up from you David but at least I now feel as though I've got my foot on the first rung of the CAD ladder and of all the projects I've ever tackled I've found CAD to be the hardest and most frustrating. Had it not been for EMS CAD and the delightful tutor Aurora I still would be an absolute CAD novice.

I'll reduce my CAD programs to EMS and Solid-Edge; I already like EMS and I've got a good feeling about Solid-Edge.

This morning the snow has finally stopped falling to be replaced by ice on the inside of the extension windows; it will cheer me up considerably this weekend to know it is summer time?

Kind regards, Col.

[ex 2 Base]

Colin there is a good article in Model Engineer magazine on making a clutch for a metal working lathe, 22 March 4 April contains part 1 next issue part 2. Could send you copies if you send me PM with your address. No snow in sunny Scarborough just very strong North Easterlies.Ted

[Retired]

Hi,

You really are so generous Ted and I very much appreciate your kind offer to send me the clutch drawings. I've still got the Myford cone clutch drawings you sent me a while ago so for the time being Ted I'll see how I get on with my clutch design as I'm keen to try it out.

Whilst visiting the last Rufforth Auto Jumble I was actually thinking about your Myford clutch design Ted but looking at the prices of the bar material I thought OUCH.

If I get stuck Ted I'll look into both the Myford clutch design and will indeed trouble you for the drawings from "Model Engineer". Thank you; you are a star.

The sun is out and it's a beautiful day apart from bitter cold; I'll wash the car once the sun comes round to the front of the bungalow otherwise the water might freeze.

Kind regards, Col.

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks for adding the PCB link Colin here is another which I mentioned in a previous thread;

http://www.pad2pad.com/

I've not tried pad2pad but as it is a free Emachineshop program I'm sure it will be easy to use with the aid of the video tutorials.

I've finally achieved what I set out to do regarding CAD. I've put many hours practice in over the last week using EMS CAD and produced drawings in 2D and also 3D images which I could only dream about a few weeks ago.

I still need to add dimensions to the 2D drawings to finish them off but it's awesome to be able to view these drawings in 3D and I can save the 3D images as JPEG files.

I was having difficulty adding circlip slots and key-ways; also when I tried to add the angled surfaces for the belt etc I kept receiving messages saying this function is not yet available? I had been going about it wrongly; clicking on the "machine" icon opens up a box allowing parameters to be set please see picture below.

   
EMS CAD.

The 3D images show chamfers; circlip grooves and key-ways added I also added a hole for the grub screw but this isn't visible.

I've gone on at length in the hope of encouraging others to have a go at similar projects and to show it is possible with a great deal of determination to produce CAD drawings.

I've played around a bit with Solid Edge and can draw very accurate lines and rectangles with only a bit of practice; previously for many years I had difficulty mastering drawing a straight line.

I can open the 3D images using "Gimp" so today I might play around with Gimp to see if I can add dimensions to these images?

The images show two views each of Part A which is securely attached to the motor shaft and Part B which is the sliding part.

If the clutch works I will be delighted if not I've enjoyed the learning curve so either way I won't lose.

Kind regards, Col.

               
2 views Part A and 2 views Part B.

[Retired]

Hi,

Over the last couple of days I've managed a couple of short sessions in the garage which on the whole has been nothing but frustration. Due to our prolonged winter I've forgotten what its like to potter around so have had to start from scratch.

The Clarke lathe was carried into the garage to clear bench space in the workshop so it wasn't set up for service and the tooling was scattered around.

First job though was to cut the cast iron blank into two lengths. This wouldn't be a problem using the big Startrite Volant bandsaw? I had been using the bandsaw to cut some flat steel but this steel was very tough and killed the blade so I installed a new blade only for the new blade to refuse cutting the steel; I ended up cutting this flat steel using the hacksaw.

The cast iron blank was very carefully marked at the cutting point and as the blank was only just long enough to yield the two pieces I wanted to ensure the cut remained on the line.

This blank was slightly over 75mm diameter and 100mm long. For novices to bandsaw work I must add a safety precaution; cutting round stock of whatever material freehand is asking to lose fingers; as the blade engages it behaves just as a belt does with a pulley; the blade will very quickly grab the material causing it to revolve at speed; with luck fingers will be spared but it is so very easy to have fingers pulled into the blade. To prevent an accident I always securely clamp two short lengths of timber or metal one each side of the material ensuring each is sitting on the bandsaw table and out of the path of the blade to prevent the material rotating then I use the clamp as a hand hold and if necessary a push stick to keep hands clear whilst the cutting proceeds; as with any machine in motion don't become distracted or look away from the cutting in progress; I'm not over the top with H&S but neither do I wish to inflict injury onto anyone. Two supports are needed because as the blade engages the work will be revolved one way but as the cut nears completion the work will revolve in the opposite direction.

Drat it; the blade wanted to wander? Trying a fresh bite again the blade began to wander so time for some adjustments to the blade roller guides; with plenty of tension on the blade and now fully supported it still wanted to deviate from the line. Open up the case and install a new blade. At last the cut was completed.

Now to the Clarke lathe. Bron kindly bought me this lathe for Christmas so I've not really had the chance to use it in anger; I set it up on the bench and gathered all the tooling. A sharp HSS (high speed steel) tool was nipped up in the tool post. Now for another major problem; the two 3" chucks would not open enough to securely hold one of the clutch blanks; not to worry I'll just install the "outside" jaws; even these wouldn't hold the blank. This was new to me because previously I've only ever used large lathes which would laugh at a 3" diameter blank? No face-plate either so I had to consider my options; go out and buy a face-plate or buy a 5" chuck; these would cost money especially the chuck?

What do I have in stock to get around this problem? Well I have plenty of steel bar and a big drill press. A plan was formed where I would bore each blank on axis at 5/8" diameter then A dummy mandrel would be turned this mandrel would be drilled and tapped at the outer end for 8mm.

To bore the holes the blanks were very accurately marked for center then center punched. The first blank was tightly secured into the machine vice and carefully positioned then the vice was tightly clamped to the drill table ensuring the table was locked. A small diameter pilot drill was run through but what's happening now? This isn't cast iron the swarf is coming away in ribbons; it's steel!! This lump of metal has been sitting under the bench for years together with my cast iron bar stock and I always thought it to be cast iron; it was rusty and the cuts had dulled so I never even gave it another thought; well steel it is. The pilot hole was enlarged then finally the chuck was removed and a 5/8" Morse taper drill inserted. The drill speed was much reduced and as the bit engaged to about 1" deep as usual the blank started to rock slightly even though everything was locked down tightly; by the time the drill broke through the rocking had increased but at least there was now a hole of sorts added; the second blank was also bored in like manner. I've never liked boring large holes on the drill press.

       
Boring at 5/8" on the drill press.

Now the dummy mandrel could be turned from a short length of 1" dia mild steel bar stock; this was easy and because of the hole boring problem the diameter of the mandrel was adjusted until the blank slid home; the mandrel was kept short on purpose otherwise the blank would "run out" even more. Next job was to bore and tap the end of the mandrel at 8mm. So far this job has been frustrating; the small Jacob's chuck supplied with the lathe was without chuck key; I intended to buy a key at Rufforth but when I wanted the chuck I couldn't locate it in the cold garage now I needed a key? Again not to worry because I'll simply borrow a chuck from one of the other machines? Oh yes here we go again; all the other chucks were fitted with tangs on their Morse taper ends. The roughest and oldest Jacob's chuck was selected and the tang removed using the hacksaw the cut being made good on the grinder. Now the tapping hole could be bored. Next to tap; the tap was nipped in the Jacobs chuck and engaged whilst the head-stock chuck was pulled around with the key; because of the small size of this lathe it was rather a fiddly job with the tool post in close proximity then to make matters worse the tap complete with chuck decided to revolve in the tail-stock so the tapping was completed by hand with a tap wrench with the mandrel secured in the large engineering vice. If I still had my big Colchester Triumph lathe this whole job would have been completed by now but more frustration was yet to come.

   
Dummy mandrel.

The largest blank was nipped up tightly onto the dummy mandrel and fortunately it wasn't a lot out of true as it was revolved by hand. At last after a few hours work turning could actually commence. The lathe was set in motion and the cut engaged; about an inch into the cut the tool started to complain? I was amazed when I inspected the HSS bit; the cutting edge had completely disappeared as though it had been ground away.

   
Blank mounted ready for turning.

The bit was re-sharpened but each time the same thing happened. The blank had an outer very hard skin and the cut was intermittent so was really punishing the tool. The Clarke instructions recommend a maximum cut of ten thou (0.010") which I had been applying. By now I was missing the Colchester and obviously to carry on in this manner I would be a very old guy by the time I turned this blank?

I knew the problem was the hard skin and scale on the blank and to reduce the cut depth would only make maters worse. The HSS tool was replaced with a brand new TC tipped tool; this new tool also objected so rather than carry on ruining good tooling I reverted back to my training from all those years ago. A tool likes to bury its nose whilst cutting otherwise it is liable to rub generating a lot of heat ending in destruction of the cutting edge.

Sorry Clarke lathe; you either turn this blank or get sold because I can't live with this any longer and I'll restore one of the Myford's before being beaten? Completely ignoring Clarke's instructions I dialed in over sixty thou (0.060"). With the lathe in motion I very gently engaged the cut and slowly peeled away the waste. The lathe was much happier with this greatly increased cut because the tool was now cutting as it should as can be seen in the picture.

   
Deep cut successfully applied.

I've done this many times over the years but on much bigger lathes; my Colchester could easily peel away half an inch without the slightest trouble but I was worried about damaging such a small lathe especially after reading the Clarke instructions. After a number of deep cuts I knocked off; whilst concentrating so hard I hadn't noticed how cold I had become and when I returned into the bungalow I felt perished; this is why I'm sitting here at the moment; I'm waiting for it to warm up a bit then I'll get cracking after dinner.

My plan is to reduce the outer diameter allowing the blank to be gripped directly in the head-stock chuck; this will allow the bores to be very accurately opened out; then new dummy mandrels will be made and hopefully this will enable me to complete both halves of the clutch knowing all diameters are concentric with the axis.

Had I been using cast iron (Meehanite) or even BMS (bright mild steel) the HSS tool would easily have done the job but I've always enjoyed raiding scrap bins and being given off-cuts; occasionally I'll come across some material which gives me some grief? The new bandsaw blade (Starrett) cut this easily enough but it was the hard skin which gave so much trouble during turning and add to this that I simply was not geared up after the long winter lay off. After dinner today I hope things go much better and I want to at least rough down both blanks. Little by little I'll get there and at this point I still don't know if the clutch will work; to add to the fun the camera batteries died I must be mad?

Kind regards, Col.

[Retired]

Hi,

Yesterday didn't quite go as planned. After dinner I resumed work and although the turning was very slow progress was being made; the largest blank was successfully roughed down then work started on the second blank.

Two hours later there was a large bang and flash as the lathe expired? The on-board 5A fuse had blown so time to call it a day because I don't have spare 20mm fuses. I tidied up and when I opened the garage doors it had been pouring with rain so in disgust I put the wet car away. I felt too cold to dry the car off.

Ten fuses were then ordered through eBay but as we are going out this morning I'll visit an electrical store and buy more fuses. Hopefully a new fuse will get the lathe working again but with my luck I'm not holding my breath.

If I wasn't so fed up I could really become depressed. So far nothing has gone as planned with this simple project. I can see benefits in installing a V8 and line-shaft?

The Clarke is a delightful small lathe but simply not up to my demands; had this dire weather not been my full time companion then I could have spent time restoring one of the Myford's. It's a miserable wet morning and I hate this climate.

More to follow as I've no intention of quitting.

Kind regards, Col.

   
Roughing out.

[camallison]

Cheer up Col - it promises to be lovely and warm on Sunday. Open the garage door, put your thermals on and enjoy the sun while you continue to beat that blank into submission. Look at it this way ....... even though it is taking time (and a lot of patience), you ARE making headway. I for one wouldn't have known where to start.

Colin

[Retired]

Hi,

Many thanks Colin for your encouragement and optimism. We've just returned from Batley; whilst driving over "the top" at Grange Moor and Hopton there is still 3 feet deep snow at the roadside and thick fog.

I've just put a new 5A fuse into the Clarke but it remains dead so after dinner I'll investigate further.

The Clarke is a capable small lathe but apart from it's limited capacity I can say I dislike the variable speed; each time I switch on at the toggle switch I then need to set the speed control; at times when the speed control is set to zero the mandrel still rotates also after running the lathe for a while it will slow down during a cut then speed up again without me touching the controls.

If I hadn't had 50 years playing with lathes then perhaps the Clarke would have been delightful; it's certainly better than no lathe but I feel another Colchester Triumph coming on?

I dream of opening the garage doors to let the sunshine flood in Colin and for a couple of days a year my dream comes true but then brings other problems; neighbours wander in wanting jobs doing and then every salesperson for miles around zero's in usually just when I'm doing something important and don't want interrupting; am I anti-social?

Kind regards, Col.