Retail therapy...

[Yorkie]

The current casements have through tenons... they are starting to separate. ..

What glue would you use?

Titebond II alphatic resin glue is the only leading brand one-part wood glue that passes the American ANSI Tye II water resistance specification. Widely used for outdoor furniture etc. See here:

www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=2ef3e95d-48d2-43bc-8e1b...

There's a video and you can check the specs of all Titebond products.

American, but widely available in the UK and the glue of choice by woodturners who do segmented work. Fast tack, way superior to PVA IMHO and not very expensive. Known by the nickname 'yeller' because of its colour, but it dries clear.

[AlanBeckett]

It's PVA isn't it?
http://www.franklininternational.com/msd...ao0020.pdf
So what's new Pussycat?

Alan

[Yorkie]

Well spotted Alan - so it is!

It's termed 'alphatic resin' which I assumed differed from PVA - it certainly differs in terms of comparison with the commonplace white PVA.

The sycamore and purpleheart segments in the attached pic of a little segmented lidded box that I turned (not my best work I have to admit), were glued with Titebond and just held together by hand for about 30 seconds, then the next segment glued on likewise as each layer was built up with no clamping. 24 hours later it was turned on the lathe at 2,500 RPM. I think if I'd have used normal white PVA glue the segments would have been flying in all directions, but it's not something I'm going to put to the test!

I certainly wouldn't be using white PVA for window frames, but neither would I use 'Titebond Original' which isn't recommended for exterior use or loadbearing applications.

Making that little segmented box - accurately cutting each segment to mate with the others - was yet another example of the truism that I've learnt as I've passed through the university of life, namely, that 'the only time I ever feel like doing something twice is just before I've done it once'

[AlanBeckett]

David,

In many ways I have great admiration for the Americans, but I'd equally say they're the biggest bullshitters on the planet.
Take some PVA, add a bit of yellow Dye and an Accelerant, call it by a fancy name and lo, miracles can be worked.
PVA comes in many flavours these days, you pays your money etc, etc.

Alan

[Radio Fixer]

Beautiful box David. Lot of patience there.

Gary

[pwdrive]

Aerolite 306 is a good glue.

http://shropshire-woodsmiths.co.uk/woodglue-test/

Lawrence.

[pwdrive]

You can use waterproof PVA for window frames, if the frame is installed correctly then it will not be subject to any stress, the frame needs to be screwed to the masonry/timber and any gaps filled.
It can be used on casements too, I suspect some window manufactures use it, In my experience PVA makes a strong joint.
I used it externally on the last place we lived in, due to the length of the house the guttering board had to be made up in three lengths, they were just butt jointed using a timber cleat glued on the back with PVA plus a couple of screws, they were up there for the best part of twenty years before we moved, there was no sign of any failure, done the same here too.

The crunch with DIY windows is good fitting joints, you don't want the glue as a "gap" filler, they also need to be designed to reduce the risk of moisture retention, the wooden windows we took out had the bottom glazing bar set on a couple of spacer blocks with no sealant used, that enabled the bottom rail of the casement to free drain at all times.

It's worth popping down to a window stockists to see the profiling/weather proofing arrangements on a modern storm proof window to see how it's done.

If you are the worrying type I would go for Aerolite or Cascamite etc.

Lawrence.

[AlanBeckett]

When we had Double Glazing installed in our last House the original Pine Frames into which the Steel windows were set were removed. They were made in 1937 and were still in beautiful condition. Even the Brass Screws came out without any problems. It was quite sad really.
As Lawrence implies, the right Timber, the right construction, the right protection and the right installation and they last forever. Glue is the last of your problems.

Alan

[pwdrive]

The wooden windows we took out hear were cheapo Magnet ones, having said that their storm proof resistance was spot on due to the timber stock profiles and the seals, most modern wooden softwood windows are Vac Vac treated or something similar.

Lawrence.

[Alan Douglas]

Fine Woodworking magazine ran a story on wood adhesives several years ago. I don't recall the details, or if they rated them for water resistance, but white and yellow PVA glues differed mainly in tackiness. They're all aliphatic. No PVAs were rated for structural applications as they all creep under stress.

FW also ran a more recent article on the strength of glued finger joints, which they tested to failure, but again that was aimed at indoor furniture.

I used resorcinol years ago; it's absolutely waterproof and doesn't creep but I think epoxy has displaced it, and that's what I use for outdoor work. "Gorilla Glue" bonds well, is waterproof (cures from moisture actually) and fills gaps but I don't trust urethanes for the long term, having seen too many turn to sticky goo eventually.

It's pretty damp outdoors today but on the whole, wood frame buildings last well in this climate. I can't think of a single stone or brick house in this entire town. Some of the public buildings are brick.