Polishing cans.

[Retired]

Hi,

I've just been into the workshop and was trying to polish a corroded valve screening can. As usual I had it in my hand and scraped it with a craft knife to remove the many small bumps following with 320 grit abrasive paper; moving onto Solvol Autosol then buffing.

I always find this job to be irksome in the extreme and a single can will easily take over half an hour to make presentable.

This got me to thinking if there was an easier way. I considered making a wooden plug to allow spinning the can at speed in the lathe but couldn't be bothered and I thought one slip the can would become damaged. I had a look around the workshop then suddenly the thought struck me to nip the can end ways on in the vice which I did taking a lot of care not to crush or distort the can.

I then tore a strip of 320 grit abrasive paper about an inch wide from a sheet and doubled the strip. Now I could use both hands one on each end of the strip and quickly removed all the outer surface taking it down to bright aluminium.

I then tore a strip from an old shirt the strip being about fifteen inches long by one inch wide and soaked the strip with Brasso. Again I could use both hands to pull the strip to and fro. Another clean strip of shirt buffed the can to a mirror finish. Boy this was much better. To polish the end of the can I rubbed it with abrasive paper then double folded a piece of shirt material giving four thickness's; this was soaked in Brasso then laid on the bench with finger and thumb pressing it to the bench securely; the can end was rubbed quite hard between finger and thumb onto the material then it was buffed with clean material.

Each can took less than five minutes using this method of polishing and I hope I can polish caps in the same way. Next time I must remember to wear gloves as the dirt really does go deep into my hands.

I've never seen this method used before and hope it is of interest.

Kind regards, Col.

[Mark R]

Col that is ingenious, and better than turning down in the lathe.
It would be interesting to see if the dulling returns in several weeks after handling them though, due to the sweat.
Ally seems very susceptible to fading very quickly.

cheers Mark

[Tedzed1]

Hello Col, nice finish, one method that I have used before, is to rub the can with very fine wire wool and white spirit, followed by a coat of thick car wax, with plenty of buffing to get rid of fingermarks, although it is a very messy way of doing it.
will give your method a try next time.

[Joe]

Remarkable. I've never been able to get aluminium to anything like that which is why I don't even try these days. I'll certainly give it a go though.

- Joe

[Retired]

Hi,

Thanks everyone.

Regarding the finger marking and the shine fading as it ages; I'd like to add that I intend to give all the polished items a coat of clear gloss lacquer to preserve the shine and protect from future corrosion.

I used to spend many hours polishing crankcases and carbs from my old motorcycles; they always looked splendid after the treatment.

I noticed Screwfix stock polishing buffs and compound and had considered buying some as I could mount the buff onto my double ended grinder or indeed use one of the spare electric motors I have.

Kind regards, Col.