13-11-2015, 04:19 PM
In another unrelated post I mentioned thus:
"I've been side-tracked by a domestic project - the electric remote garage door operator has decided to give up the ghost. It's worked faultlessly since I installed it about ten years ago to replace one that had packed up. Yesterday the remotes wouldn't work, but it works when the wall mounted directly wired push button switch is pressed. I've tried reprogramming the remotes to no avail, and basically, the upshot is that the 'logic board' - quite a complex thing with SMDs and ICs on a double-sided PCB, has developed a fault. A new board is available at £100 or so, but a complete new garage door opener can be had for £200 or so. Hence, it's a high risk strategy to fit a new board if something like the motor packs in err too long".
Had another look at the PCB and noted that it has a 330uF 35V electrolytic on it, which looked as though it was bulging at the top. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I removed it (a bit tricky on a PTH PCB), and replaced it. More in hope than expectations, I re-programmed the remote (not as impressive a task as it sounds - just press and hold the button on the remote till a light on the motor unit stops flashing), and bingo - the blighter works fine!
So, saved myself £200 + and the hassle of removing what was otherwise a perfectly serviceable unit, and fitting a new one.
Got my happy face on now!
"I've been side-tracked by a domestic project - the electric remote garage door operator has decided to give up the ghost. It's worked faultlessly since I installed it about ten years ago to replace one that had packed up. Yesterday the remotes wouldn't work, but it works when the wall mounted directly wired push button switch is pressed. I've tried reprogramming the remotes to no avail, and basically, the upshot is that the 'logic board' - quite a complex thing with SMDs and ICs on a double-sided PCB, has developed a fault. A new board is available at £100 or so, but a complete new garage door opener can be had for £200 or so. Hence, it's a high risk strategy to fit a new board if something like the motor packs in err too long".
Had another look at the PCB and noted that it has a 330uF 35V electrolytic on it, which looked as though it was bulging at the top. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I removed it (a bit tricky on a PTH PCB), and replaced it. More in hope than expectations, I re-programmed the remote (not as impressive a task as it sounds - just press and hold the button on the remote till a light on the motor unit stops flashing), and bingo - the blighter works fine!
So, saved myself £200 + and the hassle of removing what was otherwise a perfectly serviceable unit, and fitting a new one.
Got my happy face on now!
Regards, David.
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'
BVWS Member.
G-QRP Club Member 1339.
'I'm in my own little world, but I'm happy, and they know me here'







