11-09-2012, 05:50 AM
11-09-2012, 02:04 PM
I hate precotious kids....!
11-09-2012, 04:27 PM
(11-09-2012, 02:04 PM)ed731pdh Wrote: [ -> ]I hate precotious kids....!
I thought she was very entertaining and amusing!
Andy
11-09-2012, 06:02 PM
Agreed, Andy.
- Joe
- Joe
Mr Clock
12-09-2012, 09:11 AM
Thanks David,that was brilliant! Wow I,m blown away. I experimented in the late 80,s with etching,using sulphuric acid from the chemists or battery acid with an image painted onto copper with bitumastic paint. It never worked. the acid I could get was too weak. These were the days before the internet,the local Library (Holt in Norfolk) didnt have zip on etching. A 40 mile round trip to Norwich,and maybe a request for a book after looking at micro-fischers that didnt turn up the info.
I found the video very inspirering;I hope my daughter has that much get up and go and thirst for knowledge when shes this girls age. I think I detect a brainy Dad/Mum in the background. Smashing,Andy.
I found the video very inspirering;I hope my daughter has that much get up and go and thirst for knowledge when shes this girls age. I think I detect a brainy Dad/Mum in the background. Smashing,Andy.
12-09-2012, 05:24 PM
I abandoned ferric chloride as an etchant some years ago when I found out about sodium metasilicate (often termed 'metso'). It's in the form of white crystals and when mixed with water, is clear. It etches more quickly if the water is warm - about 50C, and as the exposed copper is etched away, (15 mins or so), the etchant becomes light blue but doesn't form a ghastly sludge, unlike ferric chloride. It can be used several times over if carefully stored in a marked non-metallic container. It's not expensive to buy and widely available on e-bay etc.
The reason I found the link to the bright little lass was that I was searching for info on using the laser toner/iron on method of applying PCB artwork to the plain board preparatory to etching. For many years I've used the UV light box technique, using artwork printed onto OHP transparency sheets. I used to get excellent opaque tracks printed on an HP Photosmart printer till it gave up the ghost last year. I did some research to choose a new printer to e what I'd hoped would be similar or better results. I chose an Epson SX535, which was about three times dearer than budget printers at the time, and had assumed tat it would print transparencies. Big mistake - it's hopeless. I contacted Epson 'helpline' (a oxymoron if ever there was one) and was told in a very casual way 'well of course you can't print onto acetate with it'. Basically, from that angle, it's just landfill. (I don't think other current makes and models of ink-jet printers are any better on acetates).
Hence, I thought that at some point I might get monochrome laser printer to try the 'iron-on' method and abandon the UV technique, which in any even produces variable results depending on factors such as the exposure time and developer concentration. All you need to use for paper on which to print the iron-on artwork in the laser printer is glossy paper torn from magazines such as newspaper supplements. It doesn't matter that it already has print on the paper - the laser toner isn't like ink. (Sylvia explains in the video!)
I'm still a bit sceptical about the technique and haven't heard first hand from anyone who has used it. I'll perhaps have to sub-contract the work to young Sylvia - she's got the job well sorted! (PhD by 22? Professor by 32? CEO of Apple by 35? Nothing would surprise me about that kid - what a star eh, and what fun to be around!)
The reason I found the link to the bright little lass was that I was searching for info on using the laser toner/iron on method of applying PCB artwork to the plain board preparatory to etching. For many years I've used the UV light box technique, using artwork printed onto OHP transparency sheets. I used to get excellent opaque tracks printed on an HP Photosmart printer till it gave up the ghost last year. I did some research to choose a new printer to e what I'd hoped would be similar or better results. I chose an Epson SX535, which was about three times dearer than budget printers at the time, and had assumed tat it would print transparencies. Big mistake - it's hopeless. I contacted Epson 'helpline' (a oxymoron if ever there was one) and was told in a very casual way 'well of course you can't print onto acetate with it'. Basically, from that angle, it's just landfill. (I don't think other current makes and models of ink-jet printers are any better on acetates).
Hence, I thought that at some point I might get monochrome laser printer to try the 'iron-on' method and abandon the UV technique, which in any even produces variable results depending on factors such as the exposure time and developer concentration. All you need to use for paper on which to print the iron-on artwork in the laser printer is glossy paper torn from magazines such as newspaper supplements. It doesn't matter that it already has print on the paper - the laser toner isn't like ink. (Sylvia explains in the video!)
I'm still a bit sceptical about the technique and haven't heard first hand from anyone who has used it. I'll perhaps have to sub-contract the work to young Sylvia - she's got the job well sorted! (PhD by 22? Professor by 32? CEO of Apple by 35? Nothing would surprise me about that kid - what a star eh, and what fun to be around!)