UNITRA Figaro Special- how to remove w/c switch button?

[Old Sparky]

The rotary w/c switch in this 1950s Polish valve radio is operated by a sliding button on the RH side of the cabinet. In order to remove the chassis, this button has to come off. The question is - What holds the button on? I was expecting to be able to pull it off, but am reluctant to use too much force for fear of breaking an irreplaceable part. Anyone know how to remove said button? I have the servivce sheet, but it's only a circuit diagram and alignment instructions.

[AlanBeckett]

I know a few Poles but I fear they're not old enough to be much help

A picture or two would be helpful.

Alan

[camallison]

Over on UKVR, there is a member called piotrekjjj who lives in Poland - he may be able to help.

Colin

[Old Sparky]

I know a few Poles but I fear they're not old enough to be much help

A picture or two would be helpful.

Alan

Since posting my question, Alan, I've found a long thread about the Figaro on UKVRRRDF, which gives the answer. There is a clip inside the cabinet, which secures the button to it's shaft, removable with long nosed pliers. The radio, incidentally, dates from 1967, and is a mdget AC only Valve 3 band (L,M,& SW) superhet, having ECH81, EBF89, ECL82, DM70, and a selenium half-wave rectifier.

[AlanBeckett]

Splendid.
That's pretty late for a Valve Set, but should at least have decent Components.

Alan

[camallison]

Splendid.
That's pretty late for a Valve Set, but should at least have decent Components.

Alan

Eastern bloc countries continued right up until the fall of the Berlin Wall with some production of valve sets. Solid state components were subject to embargo unless very old types.

Colin

[Old Sparky]

Following the advice given in the VRRRDF thread, I removed, with some difficulty, the clip, and was thus able to take the chassis out of the cabinet. There are some waxed paper capacitors which I'm in the process of changing, and I may well replace the selenium rectifier with a 1N4007 + series resistor. The main problem, other than a crackly w/c switch, is the on/off switch, which is high resistance. As far as I can see, the Volume & Tuning Knobs are of the 'push-on' type, but are stuck fast, so how to remove them without damaging the glass scale plate, I know not. Daren't try to lever them off!!
The slotted end of the w/c switch knob is also broken, which is going to be a problem., otherwise the radio should be repairable without too much difficulty.

[Yorkie]

The knobs do indeed pull off, but I’d think the only way you’d get them off is with the two loops of string approach – one slipped over the shaft and behind the knobs from the left – the other from the right, then gently pull. That way, the string is in contact with the rear of the knob in four places. On some radios you can get a screwdriver behind the glass to lever the knob off without coming into contact with the glass, but the knobs on the Figaro don’t protrude fare enough at the rear to be able to do that. Other than to change the switch or pot I can’t see any reason to remove the knob, and there’s also a risk that you may damage the DM70 magic eye behind the dial.(You don’t of course need to take the knobs off to get the chassis out – it’s just held in complete with the dial glass by two screws, which allows the whole chassis and dial to be withdrawn). The auto-transformer looks well up to the task and barely gets warm in use.

Some interesting design features – and auto-transformer rather than mains dropper to keep the heat down to a minimum (why didn’t Bush to that on the DAC90/90A? – they’re supposed to be radios – not electric fires!). A ferrite rod for LW/MW and an external aerial for the short wave band. Physically large valves packed into a small set, (why not smaller valves, given that they were well established and in abundance in the Eastern Block back in the late 50s?). Valve count reduced to just three by using the usual triode/pentode frequency changer, then a double diode pentode for detection, AVC and IF amplification, a triode pentode for AF amplification and a contact cooled rectifier rather than a valve.

I suppose the nearest parallel with a British set of that era would be the Pye R33 – another nice little set with some similarities to the Figaro (3 valves + Contact cooled rectifier, and an auto transformer, but no magic eye and no short wave, though the R33 uses smaller B9A valves and is a printed circuit design).

The Polish designer – Marcin Kasprzak was given a design brief ‘from the highest authorities’ to design a cheap popular, modern, efficient radio to meet a 3-month deadline in the autumn of 1958 ‘in accordance to celebrate the reunion’. (Which reunion in 1958 I know not). It took another year to get into full mass production. I bought the Maroon and cream Bakelite cabinet version at the NVCF last year in very nice condition. I think they were in production for some years and clearly made for the export market as well as the home market, in that the rear panel on mine has all the text in English and is for 220/240V, which on mine is achieved by moving the mains fuse from one position to another.

There was a wooden cabinet version for sale at the Rufforth (York) Autojumble last month is nice condition but with the usual wave-change knob problem. It looked complete and unmolested so I offered the guy £15.00, which he didn’t accept so I passed on it. If he’s there again with it on 7 June I’ll offer him £10.00 to lower his expectations and see if he’ll accept £15.00. I only buy small radios these days, and am choosy as to what I buy and how much I pay.

My Figaro is nicely built and works well. I think it's a pretty little set and a credit to its designer.

Best of luck with your Figaro.

[Old Sparky]

David, that Figaro 1 - 1/3A appears to have exactly the same chassis as the Figaro Special I'm in the process of repairing, evn down to the position of the Ferrite Rod aerial, which, on some Specials, is mounted parallel to the RH side of the chassis, as viewed from the front. Irealised that the knobs didn't have to be removed to extract the chassis from the cabinet, but the volume control is faulty (high resistance & intermittent switch ) so I need to get both knobs and the scale off in order to be able to remove the pot. Hopefully, I canremove the knobs with two loops of string. Incidentally I like the 'Polish' English ( Take off plug before removal of the rear wall!') on your radio.
Tried to remove knobs with length of cord, but they won't budge, so I hope the V/C & switch can be mae to work OK. Inb the meantime, I've changed several waxed paper capacitors, including 'that cap', i.e the one between the ECL82's triode anode and it's pentode control grid. That was a pig of a job, C29 being wedged down underneath several other components behind the valveholder
What's more, the original doesn't measure as leaky either!

[Old Sparky]

The slot end of the Wavechange Knob is broken in the Figaro. I gather this is a common problem. Any suggestions as to how to repair this item?