09-03-2013, 05:21 PM
(09-03-2013, 07:43 AM)camallison Wrote:(08-03-2013, 09:23 PM)pwdrive Wrote: Solid wood (not strip wood) softwood doors are a pain unless they are expensive ones, they go all over the place if you have centrall heating or constantly changing humidity levels.
A pressed hardboard panel door is better and lighter, the doors made from finger jointed stripwood are more stable than a solid one, I have these in our house, all half glazed, still straight with no warping. or swelling, light stained and just two thin coats of acrylic varnish to seal them, a slight rub down then wax polish, come up good evry time.
Lawrence.
These doors are certainly a high density chipboard (ie, not MFI low density), edged and veneered. As such, they are dimensionally very stable.
When I build the solid oak furniture, I take account of grain and grain curve as I assemble large pieces (say, for table tops). I then put on ends with slotted pegging to take account of any movement. By using pews that are 150+ years old, I can find stable planks up to 50cm wide and as long as 5m occasionally. I don't waste them by cutting or slitting them down. Those big pieces are used to their full potential in table or sideboard tops.
Over the decades, I have followed tips given to me by my gradfather on how to build furniture with inbuilt stability. I topped this off by diligently following Norm's New Yankee Workshop episodes - I taped them all and now have transferred them onto DVD. He has many tips and ideas apart from just building pieces of furniture. Before you all rush, I won't copy those DVDs for others as they are still copyright (which I respect) and mine are purely an archive for my own personal use.
Thank you all for the responses so far - maybe we should get back to Col's wonderful veneering of cabinets.
Colin
Hello Colin, yes some of the composite materials used today are very good, nice to see you using that old oak, my friend is a very good joiner and has made some excellent stuff bespoke to order using oak, he has his own kiln etc, I used to work with him doing green oak framing such as large roof trusses and beams for old and new style buildings, very large mortice and tennon joints and big lumps of oak, we too used oak pegs for drawing and securing the joints, all the pegs were cleaved and were from a guy in Romania for a few euro's a sack, we found that French oak was the best for green oak and air dried oak beams, they manage their oak stands very well out there, unlike here.
Sometimes if the structural calculations required it we would use alloy phosphor bronze in the round for the pegs on large span trusses.
Good to see you pay attention to grain direction and the way timber moves etc, the way timber dries out from fresh is quite specific to the timber dimension and how it's cut from the tree, sometimes some folk don't see that.
I think that veneering over composite boards etc is fine, after all back in time the veneer was appliedin many cases to a cheap timber such as pine etc.
Good luck with your projects.
Lawrence.








