29-12-2016, 02:24 AM
Excuse me, I'm an idiot. As was pointed out to me there are indeed screws you need to take out to make life easier. I ask everyone try to be patient as this develops as I feel a bit out of my depth. The last radio I worked on was a decade older with rotary knobs and large valves. So it's a bit of a jump.
The good news is no disaster so far and I have the board loosened up. I figure I'm now supposed to remove the plastic white waveband knobs so as to be able to clear the board and ease out. I see no grubscrew and feel it must be a push fit to the rod. Till I know I daren't use force and amazingly nobody online has commented on removal of plastic knobs. R12 simply drops HT and by my estimate should have 100 odd volts and that should feed the Triode anode so it can oscillate. The Mixer anode was fine but the manual gives 110 or so for thee triode anode. R12 had no volts and no continuity to HT when knobs were pressed. The variable capacitor was also dormant. So I have my troubles. PS wires break easily on this receiver so I took pics.
The good news is no disaster so far and I have the board loosened up. I figure I'm now supposed to remove the plastic white waveband knobs so as to be able to clear the board and ease out. I see no grubscrew and feel it must be a push fit to the rod. Till I know I daren't use force and amazingly nobody online has commented on removal of plastic knobs. R12 simply drops HT and by my estimate should have 100 odd volts and that should feed the Triode anode so it can oscillate. The Mixer anode was fine but the manual gives 110 or so for thee triode anode. R12 had no volts and no continuity to HT when knobs were pressed. The variable capacitor was also dormant. So I have my troubles. PS wires break easily on this receiver so I took pics.
