Hi,
Many thanks David for taking the time to add so much interesting history and I didn't know the video was part of a large series. I spotted the video on "You tube" and finding it highly educational thought it worth sharing. You've set me off on a mission as I'll have a look later to see if I can download the entire series. All three brothers in the video are now sadly passed away.
Credit where credits due Gary and in your case very well deserved. Thank you for your kind comments but I still have a great deal to learn but at least you bump started me to have a go and at that time all those years ago I had your high standards to aim for.
I'm not in a hurry to finish this Barker project but today I've made steady and useful progress so I thought I'd add the notes before I forget what I have done to date.
I really am on my own regarding this project because I've never seen this veneering tackled before. I even had lots of problems trying to figure out a way to start? The front curve scrambled my thoughts and it took a while before I decided on a plan of action and now having gained a bit more experience it is becoming easier and things are falling into place. I don't want to rush because I'm very aware at this stage things could still go wrong.
I had been considering the front and top panels as single panels joined by the curve and this was taking some resolving until I took it back to basics and thought about what I was trying to achieve. I realized I could treat both panels and the curve as a simple rectangle with two large holes. The next problem was how to gain the measurements as any slight mistake could end up with wasting expensive veneer so I only have one chance in getting this right. I wondered if 1,000 gauge wallpaper lining paper could be used as I have plenty?
The fun starts here.
The fun really did start here; the lining paper wanted to curl up and wasn't behaving as I tried to wrap it around the cabinet in fact it was proving frustrating. After fighting the lining paper I thought I've had enough of this so placed it on the bench rolled side up and whilst one hand held one end the other hand dragged the paper over the sharp edge of the bench; doing this a couple of times took the fight out of the paper. One problem solved.
I then accurately measured the cabinet using a steel tape measure and transferred the measurements to the lining paper using a pencil and wooden straightedge giving the size of the rectangle; this was then very carefully cut out using scissors. The lining paper was then attached to the cabinet with standard masking tape at the top rear edge then taped at the bottom pulling the lining paper tightly into contact with the cabinet. The cabinet was placed on its front on the bench allowing the two holes to be drawn around. The two holes had also caused me a few headaches because to get these out of position would also stop this project dead.
Lining paper attached and the two holes being marked in pencil.
I had already decided where the veneer joints would fall; the vertical joint would fall dead centre but the horizontal joint was placed to allow most of two pieces of veneer to be used for the top and part of the front panels this joint falling across the centre of the holes. I hope by arranging the veneers in this manner the pattern will look more balanced. The paper was marked for the joints and again carefully cut using scissors giving the four paper templates which would be used to mark the veneer for cutting.
At this point I had another major problem; the veneer was badly buckled and as this veneer is so fragile I was most reluctant to attempt cutting it using a craft knife. I had a tenon saw but considered this to be too unwieldy; a veneer saw would have been perfect but I didn't have a veneer saw but I now have one. I crudely converted my "gents" saw. I put on my winter kit and took the gents saw into the garage; it was a struggle working around the car but I knew if I dared to pull the car out my personal cloud would appear and give the car a soaking so I worked best I could. The home made belt sander quickly removed all the saw teeth and for good measure the edge of the blade was well rounded; as I say this was crude and the new rear facing teeth were added using a small triangular file with the blade nipped between two strips of wood in the big engineering vice; I couldn't see very well so added the teeth more by feel; ideally I would have liked to be seated at the vice then I could have made a much better job of this but I was on a mission. After filing the teeth the rough edges were removed by rubbing the blade on abrasive pare; the saw was now without "set" and would cut on the back stroke only.
Crude but effective veneer saw.
Back in the workshop I used the paper templates to draw around adding the cutting lines to the veneer; this I found quite stressful because once gain a slip up here would stop this project; I spent ages checking; double checking and double checking again; because these veneers are to be quartered this means they are "handed" not only this but the pattern must be correctly arranged; oh boy a lot could go wrong at this stage.
I found the easiest way was to select the two top veneers; ignoring the cut-outs I knew the two templates were the same overall size so taking great care to align the grain the template was drawn around using a pencil whilst one veneer was placed in perfect position on top of the other. After checking again for the umpteenth time did I lay on a wooden straightedge and commence to saw through both thicknesses. The saw worked a treat with very little tear out; all four sides were thus cut bringing the veneer down to a more manageable size whilst removing a lot of the outer buckling. The other pair of veneers were also cut to size in the same manner. I stress the veneers were cut 1/4" over-size because I knew they would require further trimming if I'm lucky enough to render them flat which will be the next job.
Lining paper patterns and marking out.
Out of interest and to explain an idea which popped into my head in the early hours whilst in bed (who needs sleep?) I had been giving veneering the curve a great deal of thought and to try to simply run the hot iron around following up with the veneering hammer would surely destroy this fragile veneer? I couldn't use a veneering press even if I had one; I couldn't use a veneering bag (Vacuum) if I had one because both would crush the cabinet; a custom made wooden caul would possibly work but with considerable extra work and how would I attach the caul? I'm stuck with the hammer method but how the heck can I form the veneer around the curve?
Not easy.
This is as yet only an idea I came up with after considerable thought; could I possibly find a method that would fully support the veneer whilst it was being laid around the curve whilst allowing the hot iron and veneering hammer to be applied? Impossible? I came up with using a length of cotton cloth and two battens; the ends of the cloth being securely glued to the battens and the cloth long enough and wide enough to span the veneer to be laid?
Cloth with battens attached.
The plan is to give the veneer a good soaking in water then to hopefully hot iron it flat; laying one piece of veneer as normal to the cabinet top whilst ensuring perfect alignment; now having applied a generous coat of hot hide glue over the curve and beyond the length of the veneer; attach one of the battens securely using clamps aligning it with the top rear edge of the cabinet; cloth side against the veneer; grasping the other batten in my hand it will be moved horizontally towards the front of the cabinet until pulled tight then I'll gently drop my hand whilst holding the batten and if it works the cloth will bring the veneer into close contact all around the curve allowing the iron to be applied and followed up with the hammer. The cloth would be soaked in water beforehand. I hope this explanation is clear but with a lot of luck I hope to provide pictures in the next few days. I've never seen anything like this done before but if successful will be worth knowing. If it doesn't work I've lost nothing but will have enjoyed experimenting with something new but if it does work I'll never worry again about veneering an outside curve.
I knocked off today whilst I'm winning as I don't want to push my luck but over the next couple of days I'll be posting success or failure. This project has now got my full attention.
Veneer roughed out.
For anyone thinking Col has finally lost the plot please have a go at normal veneering then try to veneer a curve using a veneering hammer and hide glue then post your findings as I'm always happy to learn.
Kind regards, Col.
Many thanks David for taking the time to add so much interesting history and I didn't know the video was part of a large series. I spotted the video on "You tube" and finding it highly educational thought it worth sharing. You've set me off on a mission as I'll have a look later to see if I can download the entire series. All three brothers in the video are now sadly passed away.
Credit where credits due Gary and in your case very well deserved. Thank you for your kind comments but I still have a great deal to learn but at least you bump started me to have a go and at that time all those years ago I had your high standards to aim for.
I'm not in a hurry to finish this Barker project but today I've made steady and useful progress so I thought I'd add the notes before I forget what I have done to date.
I really am on my own regarding this project because I've never seen this veneering tackled before. I even had lots of problems trying to figure out a way to start? The front curve scrambled my thoughts and it took a while before I decided on a plan of action and now having gained a bit more experience it is becoming easier and things are falling into place. I don't want to rush because I'm very aware at this stage things could still go wrong.
I had been considering the front and top panels as single panels joined by the curve and this was taking some resolving until I took it back to basics and thought about what I was trying to achieve. I realized I could treat both panels and the curve as a simple rectangle with two large holes. The next problem was how to gain the measurements as any slight mistake could end up with wasting expensive veneer so I only have one chance in getting this right. I wondered if 1,000 gauge wallpaper lining paper could be used as I have plenty?
The fun starts here.
The fun really did start here; the lining paper wanted to curl up and wasn't behaving as I tried to wrap it around the cabinet in fact it was proving frustrating. After fighting the lining paper I thought I've had enough of this so placed it on the bench rolled side up and whilst one hand held one end the other hand dragged the paper over the sharp edge of the bench; doing this a couple of times took the fight out of the paper. One problem solved.
I then accurately measured the cabinet using a steel tape measure and transferred the measurements to the lining paper using a pencil and wooden straightedge giving the size of the rectangle; this was then very carefully cut out using scissors. The lining paper was then attached to the cabinet with standard masking tape at the top rear edge then taped at the bottom pulling the lining paper tightly into contact with the cabinet. The cabinet was placed on its front on the bench allowing the two holes to be drawn around. The two holes had also caused me a few headaches because to get these out of position would also stop this project dead.
Lining paper attached and the two holes being marked in pencil.
I had already decided where the veneer joints would fall; the vertical joint would fall dead centre but the horizontal joint was placed to allow most of two pieces of veneer to be used for the top and part of the front panels this joint falling across the centre of the holes. I hope by arranging the veneers in this manner the pattern will look more balanced. The paper was marked for the joints and again carefully cut using scissors giving the four paper templates which would be used to mark the veneer for cutting.
At this point I had another major problem; the veneer was badly buckled and as this veneer is so fragile I was most reluctant to attempt cutting it using a craft knife. I had a tenon saw but considered this to be too unwieldy; a veneer saw would have been perfect but I didn't have a veneer saw but I now have one. I crudely converted my "gents" saw. I put on my winter kit and took the gents saw into the garage; it was a struggle working around the car but I knew if I dared to pull the car out my personal cloud would appear and give the car a soaking so I worked best I could. The home made belt sander quickly removed all the saw teeth and for good measure the edge of the blade was well rounded; as I say this was crude and the new rear facing teeth were added using a small triangular file with the blade nipped between two strips of wood in the big engineering vice; I couldn't see very well so added the teeth more by feel; ideally I would have liked to be seated at the vice then I could have made a much better job of this but I was on a mission. After filing the teeth the rough edges were removed by rubbing the blade on abrasive pare; the saw was now without "set" and would cut on the back stroke only.
Crude but effective veneer saw.
Back in the workshop I used the paper templates to draw around adding the cutting lines to the veneer; this I found quite stressful because once gain a slip up here would stop this project; I spent ages checking; double checking and double checking again; because these veneers are to be quartered this means they are "handed" not only this but the pattern must be correctly arranged; oh boy a lot could go wrong at this stage.
I found the easiest way was to select the two top veneers; ignoring the cut-outs I knew the two templates were the same overall size so taking great care to align the grain the template was drawn around using a pencil whilst one veneer was placed in perfect position on top of the other. After checking again for the umpteenth time did I lay on a wooden straightedge and commence to saw through both thicknesses. The saw worked a treat with very little tear out; all four sides were thus cut bringing the veneer down to a more manageable size whilst removing a lot of the outer buckling. The other pair of veneers were also cut to size in the same manner. I stress the veneers were cut 1/4" over-size because I knew they would require further trimming if I'm lucky enough to render them flat which will be the next job.
Lining paper patterns and marking out.
Out of interest and to explain an idea which popped into my head in the early hours whilst in bed (who needs sleep?) I had been giving veneering the curve a great deal of thought and to try to simply run the hot iron around following up with the veneering hammer would surely destroy this fragile veneer? I couldn't use a veneering press even if I had one; I couldn't use a veneering bag (Vacuum) if I had one because both would crush the cabinet; a custom made wooden caul would possibly work but with considerable extra work and how would I attach the caul? I'm stuck with the hammer method but how the heck can I form the veneer around the curve?
Not easy.
This is as yet only an idea I came up with after considerable thought; could I possibly find a method that would fully support the veneer whilst it was being laid around the curve whilst allowing the hot iron and veneering hammer to be applied? Impossible? I came up with using a length of cotton cloth and two battens; the ends of the cloth being securely glued to the battens and the cloth long enough and wide enough to span the veneer to be laid?
Cloth with battens attached.
The plan is to give the veneer a good soaking in water then to hopefully hot iron it flat; laying one piece of veneer as normal to the cabinet top whilst ensuring perfect alignment; now having applied a generous coat of hot hide glue over the curve and beyond the length of the veneer; attach one of the battens securely using clamps aligning it with the top rear edge of the cabinet; cloth side against the veneer; grasping the other batten in my hand it will be moved horizontally towards the front of the cabinet until pulled tight then I'll gently drop my hand whilst holding the batten and if it works the cloth will bring the veneer into close contact all around the curve allowing the iron to be applied and followed up with the hammer. The cloth would be soaked in water beforehand. I hope this explanation is clear but with a lot of luck I hope to provide pictures in the next few days. I've never seen anything like this done before but if successful will be worth knowing. If it doesn't work I've lost nothing but will have enjoyed experimenting with something new but if it does work I'll never worry again about veneering an outside curve.
I knocked off today whilst I'm winning as I don't want to push my luck but over the next couple of days I'll be posting success or failure. This project has now got my full attention.
Veneer roughed out.
For anyone thinking Col has finally lost the plot please have a go at normal veneering then try to veneer a curve using a veneering hammer and hide glue then post your findings as I'm always happy to learn.
Kind regards, Col.
Happiness is a wreck of a cabinet to restore.
