19-05-2024, 03:22 PM
Quick sketch of idea using a shaver transformer/outlet.
I think the raw HT is about 300 to 325V depending on your supply and model of shaver outlet.
All six HT rectifiers can be 1N4007.
The doubler gives about 600V or maybe 900V the way I've wired it. Could be a 3 way switch, 300, 600 and 900. The small resistors are only maybe 200V rated so maybe 4 x 1 M in series for the leakage PIV. The main smoothing caps can be 200V as there are 2 in series each with 2 x 220K in series across it.
The lamps should be 10W pigmy, filament/tungsten/halogen max power as the transformer is 20W limited.
Two separate heatsinks that are probably live on the fets, mounted on plastic. Ideally a robust plastic mesh box for them.
The neon is for leakage. Flashes or if really bad looks steady. If suitable series resistance you can touch the PIV or leakage test 900V, but a charged capacitor tested on it could be lethal, so arrange a discharge for Device under test.
Likely regulation is gilding the lily. I will think about it.
Not shown is a negative supply for grid (a regular isolated LW PSU with + to 0V) or FET bias or supply for heater / filament.
Series is nominally 25 or 50mA for simple battery valves (set to 23 and 46) and nominally 100, 150, 200 or 300mA for indirect valves. But set it lower.
Parallel needs 0.5V to 14V.
The 2, 6.3 and 12.6V valves on battery are really 2.5, 7 and 14V max and about 1.8, 5.4 and 10.8V minimum.
The 1.4V valves are really 1.35V nominal, 1V minimum and 1.6V max, though really 1.1V is often minimum for DKseries at shortwave. There are 1.2V battery valves (rechargeable) and 0.7V types (hearing aids). Some Russian indicators might be really 0.6V. They are a little like a DM160.
Each of the two HT supplies could be switchable with optionally different lamps to the 150V centre tap.
I'd not put large electrolytics on the output of lamps/HT. Maybe 1uF or 2uF poly foil or motor start.
This is just some thoughts.
I think the raw HT is about 300 to 325V depending on your supply and model of shaver outlet.
All six HT rectifiers can be 1N4007.
The doubler gives about 600V or maybe 900V the way I've wired it. Could be a 3 way switch, 300, 600 and 900. The small resistors are only maybe 200V rated so maybe 4 x 1 M in series for the leakage PIV. The main smoothing caps can be 200V as there are 2 in series each with 2 x 220K in series across it.
The lamps should be 10W pigmy, filament/tungsten/halogen max power as the transformer is 20W limited.
Two separate heatsinks that are probably live on the fets, mounted on plastic. Ideally a robust plastic mesh box for them.
The neon is for leakage. Flashes or if really bad looks steady. If suitable series resistance you can touch the PIV or leakage test 900V, but a charged capacitor tested on it could be lethal, so arrange a discharge for Device under test.
Likely regulation is gilding the lily. I will think about it.
Not shown is a negative supply for grid (a regular isolated LW PSU with + to 0V) or FET bias or supply for heater / filament.
Series is nominally 25 or 50mA for simple battery valves (set to 23 and 46) and nominally 100, 150, 200 or 300mA for indirect valves. But set it lower.
Parallel needs 0.5V to 14V.
The 2, 6.3 and 12.6V valves on battery are really 2.5, 7 and 14V max and about 1.8, 5.4 and 10.8V minimum.
The 1.4V valves are really 1.35V nominal, 1V minimum and 1.6V max, though really 1.1V is often minimum for DKseries at shortwave. There are 1.2V battery valves (rechargeable) and 0.7V types (hearing aids). Some Russian indicators might be really 0.6V. They are a little like a DM160.
Each of the two HT supplies could be switchable with optionally different lamps to the 150V centre tap.
I'd not put large electrolytics on the output of lamps/HT. Maybe 1uF or 2uF poly foil or motor start.
This is just some thoughts.
