29-05-2011, 06:36 PM
Thought I would show you my CRT tester in action The Teleman put me onto this tester and seeing it in action sorting out my PYE V4 convinced me I had to get one. The tester comes with the tube base adapters and is capable of testing early CRT's all the way up to the last colour tubes.
It has on 4 occasions, brought tubes back from the brink, cleared a HKS on a PYE V4, a GEC tube revived through the gentle ageing and a Bush TV22 and most recently reviving a CRT that had spent 10+ years in a garden. When I get a set I always put the CRT on tester running through the tests.
As we are testing B&W tubes the colour gun control must be set to "Red" then the B&W/red control should be set to minimum. Ensure heater voltage is at zero and fine control at minimum.
The tester has a number of steps and if you follow these it makes life simple.
Function select control
position
1. set heater volts, in this case I'm testing a Mullard AW21-11 and the heater volts need to be 11.5v (see pic 1 & 2) set the heater voltage to the 10-12v setting (coarse) then use the other control to set (fine). At this stage the unit is not supplying power. (pic 3)
2. In this position power is now on and you will see the heater volts climb on the meter. The meter has number indicators which correspond to the function you are performing, so in this case we read heater voltage on the top scale that has 2 in the left column.The heater volts rise to 10v and with the fine adjust we bring the voltage to the correct 11.5v (pic 4)
3. In this position the tester verifies if there is heater cathode leakage, which can be seen there is not.(pic 5)
4. This position check for G1 leakage, again nothing untoward.(pic 6)
5. Here we now have to set the G1 voltage, this is achieved by rotating the G1 control until the meter rises on the scale (5) to the point marked on the scale as indicated by a line which is between 40 & 50. (pic 7)
6. Now we set the cut-off (G2 voltage), this is achieved by rotating the B&W/red control until the meter rises on the scale (6) to the set cut-off bar. (pic 8)
7. Now we can read the emission of the tube, as can be seen the AW21-11 is nice and healthy. (pic 9)
Sometimes a tube will read in the red suggesting low emission but if left in this position the tube revives and the needle will move into the green. If not or any shorts then move onto the function on the right.
The other function are remove shorts and the 3 levels of rejuvenatio, which when selected, are activated by the red button.
So there we have it a great tester they often come up on e-bay and I highly recommend it.
Chris
It has on 4 occasions, brought tubes back from the brink, cleared a HKS on a PYE V4, a GEC tube revived through the gentle ageing and a Bush TV22 and most recently reviving a CRT that had spent 10+ years in a garden. When I get a set I always put the CRT on tester running through the tests.
As we are testing B&W tubes the colour gun control must be set to "Red" then the B&W/red control should be set to minimum. Ensure heater voltage is at zero and fine control at minimum.
The tester has a number of steps and if you follow these it makes life simple.
Function select control
position
1. set heater volts, in this case I'm testing a Mullard AW21-11 and the heater volts need to be 11.5v (see pic 1 & 2) set the heater voltage to the 10-12v setting (coarse) then use the other control to set (fine). At this stage the unit is not supplying power. (pic 3)
2. In this position power is now on and you will see the heater volts climb on the meter. The meter has number indicators which correspond to the function you are performing, so in this case we read heater voltage on the top scale that has 2 in the left column.The heater volts rise to 10v and with the fine adjust we bring the voltage to the correct 11.5v (pic 4)
3. In this position the tester verifies if there is heater cathode leakage, which can be seen there is not.(pic 5)
4. This position check for G1 leakage, again nothing untoward.(pic 6)
5. Here we now have to set the G1 voltage, this is achieved by rotating the G1 control until the meter rises on the scale (5) to the point marked on the scale as indicated by a line which is between 40 & 50. (pic 7)
6. Now we set the cut-off (G2 voltage), this is achieved by rotating the B&W/red control until the meter rises on the scale (6) to the set cut-off bar. (pic 8)
7. Now we can read the emission of the tube, as can be seen the AW21-11 is nice and healthy. (pic 9)
Sometimes a tube will read in the red suggesting low emission but if left in this position the tube revives and the needle will move into the green. If not or any shorts then move onto the function on the right.
The other function are remove shorts and the 3 levels of rejuvenatio, which when selected, are activated by the red button.
So there we have it a great tester they often come up on e-bay and I highly recommend it.
Chris
