https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/ Tue, 12 May 2026 02:51:56 +0000 MyBB https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9192 Tue, 30 Jan 2024 23:47:19 +0000 DrStrangelove]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9192
I bought one many years ago from Ambit & it never worked.

Another example I found in work that didn't work either.

Then again the 1976 receiver from Wireless World needed a lot of tinkering to make it function reliably especially in a steel frame building.]]>
I bought one many years ago from Ambit & it never worked.

Another example I found in work that didn't work either.

Then again the 1976 receiver from Wireless World needed a lot of tinkering to make it function reliably especially in a steel frame building.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8785 Sun, 24 Apr 2022 12:53:47 +0000 PerdioPal]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8785 https://www.tfa-dostmann.de/en/product/a...k-60-1506/ from Amazon.  Great silent movement, sets from DCF77 in Germany, and an hour fast all the time funny as it has English writing on the dial.  Loads of people moaning about that, simple fix, pop the "glass" off and move the hour hand back one, fixed.  The bit that got me wondering is the light, a warm white, I thought it was an LED with a boost converter from the 1.5V AA cell, no it is a real filament bulb.]]> https://www.tfa-dostmann.de/en/product/a...k-60-1506/ from Amazon.  Great silent movement, sets from DCF77 in Germany, and an hour fast all the time funny as it has English writing on the dial.  Loads of people moaning about that, simple fix, pop the "glass" off and move the hour hand back one, fixed.  The bit that got me wondering is the light, a warm white, I thought it was an LED with a boost converter from the 1.5V AA cell, no it is a real filament bulb.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8563 Thu, 16 Sep 2021 11:58:04 +0000 LyntonP]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8563 Tried to contact the sellers a few years ago but I think they have retired now.
Any idea where I could find information on how to clean the mechanism?
Regards
LyntonP

  8B077EEA-471F-48A2-8E86-6D4ECB8AFBD6.jpeg (Size: 1.1 MB / Downloads: 42) ]]> Tried to contact the sellers a few years ago but I think they have retired now.
Any idea where I could find information on how to clean the mechanism?
Regards
LyntonP

  8B077EEA-471F-48A2-8E86-6D4ECB8AFBD6.jpeg (Size: 1.1 MB / Downloads: 42) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7316 Fri, 01 Feb 2019 18:09:29 +0000 drryld]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7316
- Mine appears to only have a 0.1uf capacitor inside the box connected to the red and green terminal. No transistor is present to switch the current? I did
 pull the capacitor out to check behind it, only the wires no transistor.

`I know the coil for the magnet tend to go bad but I am going to try to replace the capacitor/Transistor? first due to the $70 to have the coil re-done.

Any help on the wiring and capacitor/ transistor schematic. instructions would help me greatly. ANY input is appreciated. TY much.]]>
- Mine appears to only have a 0.1uf capacitor inside the box connected to the red and green terminal. No transistor is present to switch the current? I did
 pull the capacitor out to check behind it, only the wires no transistor.

`I know the coil for the magnet tend to go bad but I am going to try to replace the capacitor/Transistor? first due to the $70 to have the coil re-done.

Any help on the wiring and capacitor/ transistor schematic. instructions would help me greatly. ANY input is appreciated. TY much.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7112 Thu, 04 Oct 2018 16:18:34 +0000 lucas.francozo]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7112 https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7109 Sat, 29 Sep 2018 23:51:39 +0000 Refugee]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7109 I have found a motor in the timer from a microwave that had a switching failure in the heat rate control.
There is a little clutch that is packed with grease that fits under three little hooks and looks like it is fitted to the gear with circlip pliers during production. It has a long plastic spring with a paddle on the end of it. There is also a peg to stop the flag being pushed down.

  IMG_0098.JPG (Size: 106.64 KB / Downloads: 10)

The motor pinion has a free wheel like cam below the gear teeth.
In the lower right of the photo you can see the shadow of the parking stop for the flag when the motor is running in the correct direction (antickockwise).

  IMG_0101.JPG (Size: 87.92 KB / Downloads: 10)

In the next photo you can see the flag close to the stop cam as it would be when the motor is running in the correct direction.

  IMG_0104.JPG (Size: 86.02 KB / Downloads: 5)

The next photo shows the flag close to the cam on the motor where it will strike the free wheel cam and get compressed until the motor rotation is overcome and the rotor gets sprung to the correct direction of rotation. The grease will provide some viscose resistance to help the spring to compress so generating the energy needed to flick the rotor in the right direction.

  IMG_0106.JPG (Size: 73.82 KB / Downloads: 5)

Then a general view with the flag mid way between the two positions.

  IMG_0108.JPG (Size: 65.4 KB / Downloads: 10) ]]> I have found a motor in the timer from a microwave that had a switching failure in the heat rate control.
There is a little clutch that is packed with grease that fits under three little hooks and looks like it is fitted to the gear with circlip pliers during production. It has a long plastic spring with a paddle on the end of it. There is also a peg to stop the flag being pushed down.

  IMG_0098.JPG (Size: 106.64 KB / Downloads: 10)

The motor pinion has a free wheel like cam below the gear teeth.
In the lower right of the photo you can see the shadow of the parking stop for the flag when the motor is running in the correct direction (antickockwise).

  IMG_0101.JPG (Size: 87.92 KB / Downloads: 10)

In the next photo you can see the flag close to the stop cam as it would be when the motor is running in the correct direction.

  IMG_0104.JPG (Size: 86.02 KB / Downloads: 5)

The next photo shows the flag close to the cam on the motor where it will strike the free wheel cam and get compressed until the motor rotation is overcome and the rotor gets sprung to the correct direction of rotation. The grease will provide some viscose resistance to help the spring to compress so generating the energy needed to flick the rotor in the right direction.

  IMG_0106.JPG (Size: 73.82 KB / Downloads: 5)

Then a general view with the flag mid way between the two positions.

  IMG_0108.JPG (Size: 65.4 KB / Downloads: 10) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7092 Wed, 19 Sep 2018 09:49:43 +0000 Scottart]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7092
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1moRfIXCfak

Fantastic !!]]>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1moRfIXCfak

Fantastic !!]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6393 Wed, 07 Jun 2017 16:25:37 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6393
This french clock has turned up. The movement is marked "Hersant 1869 Paris". The striking mechanism works if you wind the hands forward. The clock itself ticks for about 15 seconds if you nudge the pendulum, then stops. It's fully wound. I've got the winding key.

This is the closest I can find online. Certainly the movement looks very similar: https://www.galerie-atena.com/en/gilt-br...-5892.html

Personally I think it's hideous but it's not technically mine to dispose of. Though I suspect it will be disposed of soon. Is it of any value?

  french_clock (Medium).jpg (Size: 208.07 KB / Downloads: 42) ]]>
This french clock has turned up. The movement is marked "Hersant 1869 Paris". The striking mechanism works if you wind the hands forward. The clock itself ticks for about 15 seconds if you nudge the pendulum, then stops. It's fully wound. I've got the winding key.

This is the closest I can find online. Certainly the movement looks very similar: https://www.galerie-atena.com/en/gilt-br...-5892.html

Personally I think it's hideous but it's not technically mine to dispose of. Though I suspect it will be disposed of soon. Is it of any value?

  french_clock (Medium).jpg (Size: 208.07 KB / Downloads: 42) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5570 Thu, 05 May 2016 10:46:45 +0000 Bassoonbloke]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5570
Well no surprises here, i'm a bit of a clock fan as well as everything else. I think my favourite clock (that I own) is an early(ish) French Morbier clock.
This is a large cottage/village made timepiece that has a Verge movement and ticks at about 1.5 seconds per tick.
It's movement follows a standard setup for these clocks and is rather basic, but beautiful. If you open the side doors you can watch with wonder the very large Verge escapement working.
Judging by the striking side setup, I believe that the clock was probably made in about 1830, but it is very hard to pinpoint exactly when it was made.
It has two very large weights and a long pendulum (neither of which are original, but are good replacements).
The picture is of a verge movement of a Morbier clock (not mine I hasten to add) to give you some idea of what i'm yapping on about !!
Anyone else own one?
Enjoy.

Alan.

  5_-gehwerk_w329_h580.jpg (Size: 41.6 KB / Downloads: 59) ]]>
Well no surprises here, i'm a bit of a clock fan as well as everything else. I think my favourite clock (that I own) is an early(ish) French Morbier clock.
This is a large cottage/village made timepiece that has a Verge movement and ticks at about 1.5 seconds per tick.
It's movement follows a standard setup for these clocks and is rather basic, but beautiful. If you open the side doors you can watch with wonder the very large Verge escapement working.
Judging by the striking side setup, I believe that the clock was probably made in about 1830, but it is very hard to pinpoint exactly when it was made.
It has two very large weights and a long pendulum (neither of which are original, but are good replacements).
The picture is of a verge movement of a Morbier clock (not mine I hasten to add) to give you some idea of what i'm yapping on about !!
Anyone else own one?
Enjoy.

Alan.

  5_-gehwerk_w329_h580.jpg (Size: 41.6 KB / Downloads: 59) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3593 Tue, 16 Jul 2013 13:28:56 +0000 dennishoy]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3593
This clock is unusual because Seth Thomas is an American company that surely would not outsource manufacture to Westclox in Scotland without good reason. If anyone knows the reason, please post to this thread.

The clock dates from the late 1960s-early 1970s and uses the Westclox ATO LIC electronic movement (single transistor) run from a 1.5Volt 'C' cell.

This clock was in very good condition, but not working. A quick inspection showed the positive battery lead had become detached from the circuit board. The clock was dismantled and the movement cleaned and lubricated. The positive battery lead was soldered on to the pcb and the movement tested with a new 'C' cell.
It worked fine.

This movement is of reasonable quality because the gearwheels are metal. Plastic has made an appearance in the adjusting mechanism, but this has no moving parts.

All was fine so the rest of the clock was cleaned, chips touched in with black paint where needed. The worn green baize was replaced with new and the clock was reassembled and placed on test for time keeping.

Some pictures of the parts are here.


  003.jpg (Size: 261.09 KB / Downloads: 137)

  002.jpg (Size: 282.68 KB / Downloads: 112)

  001.jpg (Size: 189.16 KB / Downloads: 104) ]]>
This clock is unusual because Seth Thomas is an American company that surely would not outsource manufacture to Westclox in Scotland without good reason. If anyone knows the reason, please post to this thread.

The clock dates from the late 1960s-early 1970s and uses the Westclox ATO LIC electronic movement (single transistor) run from a 1.5Volt 'C' cell.

This clock was in very good condition, but not working. A quick inspection showed the positive battery lead had become detached from the circuit board. The clock was dismantled and the movement cleaned and lubricated. The positive battery lead was soldered on to the pcb and the movement tested with a new 'C' cell.
It worked fine.

This movement is of reasonable quality because the gearwheels are metal. Plastic has made an appearance in the adjusting mechanism, but this has no moving parts.

All was fine so the rest of the clock was cleaned, chips touched in with black paint where needed. The worn green baize was replaced with new and the clock was reassembled and placed on test for time keeping.

Some pictures of the parts are here.


  003.jpg (Size: 261.09 KB / Downloads: 137)

  002.jpg (Size: 282.68 KB / Downloads: 112)

  001.jpg (Size: 189.16 KB / Downloads: 104) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3490 Mon, 17 Jun 2013 19:17:12 +0000 dennishoy]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3490
This glass-dome ATO clock dates from the early 1950s and is fairly simple. A 1.5V battery is connected to an operating coil through a pair of normally open contacts. The swinging pendulum carries of a magnet which passes through the coil and also closes the pair of contacts briefly as it passes through the lowest point of the swing. The resulting current in the coil creates a magnetic pulse which repels the pendulum which then opens the contacts again. There is a ratchet arrangement to prevent the contacts from closing on the return swing of the pendulum. This is a simple arragement, but was unreliable due to the need for critical mechanical adjustment of the moving parts and the contacts themselves which tended to become corroded over time.

I removed all the parts from the bags and tobacco tins, then sorted them to assess what was missing. The suspension spring was broken, which was probably the reason for it being taken apart as they are cannot be replaced in situ. Some of the small M1 and M1.2 screws were missing as was the glass dome. The movement did not operate the small pair of electrical contacts. Other than that, it was restorable..... but was it going to be worth it as a new glass dome would be prohibitive. This dome is classed as 'large' and needs to be 165mm to fit the slot in the base.

The bits to repair my Kango concrete breaker had arrived so which repair should I attempt today? I opted for the clock because if this failed, I could repair the Kango and test it on the clock afterwards.

I sorted the parts for the base and cleaned and polished them before reassembling this as a starting item. A bonus was that the fumes from the Horolene killed all the flying ants that had invaded in the kitchen. It looked a bit like the 'Battle of Britain' over the skies of Britian as they fell into the sink in great numbers.

The base was finished and 'before' and 'after' pictures are shown below.


  01.jpg (Size: 258.72 KB / Downloads: 181)

  02.jpg (Size: 252.81 KB / Downloads: 151) ]]>
This glass-dome ATO clock dates from the early 1950s and is fairly simple. A 1.5V battery is connected to an operating coil through a pair of normally open contacts. The swinging pendulum carries of a magnet which passes through the coil and also closes the pair of contacts briefly as it passes through the lowest point of the swing. The resulting current in the coil creates a magnetic pulse which repels the pendulum which then opens the contacts again. There is a ratchet arrangement to prevent the contacts from closing on the return swing of the pendulum. This is a simple arragement, but was unreliable due to the need for critical mechanical adjustment of the moving parts and the contacts themselves which tended to become corroded over time.

I removed all the parts from the bags and tobacco tins, then sorted them to assess what was missing. The suspension spring was broken, which was probably the reason for it being taken apart as they are cannot be replaced in situ. Some of the small M1 and M1.2 screws were missing as was the glass dome. The movement did not operate the small pair of electrical contacts. Other than that, it was restorable..... but was it going to be worth it as a new glass dome would be prohibitive. This dome is classed as 'large' and needs to be 165mm to fit the slot in the base.

The bits to repair my Kango concrete breaker had arrived so which repair should I attempt today? I opted for the clock because if this failed, I could repair the Kango and test it on the clock afterwards.

I sorted the parts for the base and cleaned and polished them before reassembling this as a starting item. A bonus was that the fumes from the Horolene killed all the flying ants that had invaded in the kitchen. It looked a bit like the 'Battle of Britain' over the skies of Britian as they fell into the sink in great numbers.

The base was finished and 'before' and 'after' pictures are shown below.


  01.jpg (Size: 258.72 KB / Downloads: 181)

  02.jpg (Size: 252.81 KB / Downloads: 151) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3477 Sat, 15 Jun 2013 17:33:40 +0000 dennishoy]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3477
I decided that after walking the dogs with a friend between the rain showers, I would get another clock to repair, so out came the box of junk and a Tempora mantle clock was selected for 'the treatment'.

This clock dates from the early 1970s and has the Smiths Sectric tuning fork movement fitted. The clock was not in too bad condition overall; someone had robbed the brass feet and although it was dirty, it ran for a few seconds before stopping.

This mantel clock was expensive to buy and to repair, and somewhat unreliable; they do not appear very often so I assume most were binned years ago.

This clock has a tuning fork movement similar in principle to the Bulova Accutron wrist watch. Whereas the Accutron drives the hands by a mechanical linkage from the tuning fork, this clock does so by means of a magnetic escapement (developed by C.F. Clifford in the 1940s). The tuning fork vibrates at 300Hz, which makes the second hand move smoothly, and look as though the clock is powered by a motor.

The electronics (one transistor, one resistor and two capacitors) are on a single board along with the coil assembly.

The 300 Hz tuning fork can be seen in the picture of the movement. It is fixed to the back plate at the centre of the curve at the left hand end. The right hand end of the lower tine carries a cylindrical magnet that vibrates within the coil. The coil has two windings; one generates current from the movement of the cylindrical magnet which turns on a transistor; a second coil which in the collector circuit of the transistor then gives impulse to the tuning fork, maintaining its vibrations.

The right hand end of the upper vibrating tine carries a small horse-shoe magnet which interacts with the mu-metal escape wheel and drives the wheel round in continuous motion. The escape wheel is not self-starting, but is spun into motion by the hand-setting action. Once rotating, the escape wheel's speed is locked to the vibrations of the horse-shoe magnet. There is no mechanical connection between this magnet and the escape wheel.

Some pictures of the clock before restoration are attached.

Pic1 and Pic2 show the unrestored clock.
Pic3 shows the tuning fork movement.


  Pic1.jpg (Size: 278.24 KB / Downloads: 149)

  Pic2.jpg (Size: 255.8 KB / Downloads: 153)

  Pic3.jpg (Size: 225.92 KB / Downloads: 225) ]]>
I decided that after walking the dogs with a friend between the rain showers, I would get another clock to repair, so out came the box of junk and a Tempora mantle clock was selected for 'the treatment'.

This clock dates from the early 1970s and has the Smiths Sectric tuning fork movement fitted. The clock was not in too bad condition overall; someone had robbed the brass feet and although it was dirty, it ran for a few seconds before stopping.

This mantel clock was expensive to buy and to repair, and somewhat unreliable; they do not appear very often so I assume most were binned years ago.

This clock has a tuning fork movement similar in principle to the Bulova Accutron wrist watch. Whereas the Accutron drives the hands by a mechanical linkage from the tuning fork, this clock does so by means of a magnetic escapement (developed by C.F. Clifford in the 1940s). The tuning fork vibrates at 300Hz, which makes the second hand move smoothly, and look as though the clock is powered by a motor.

The electronics (one transistor, one resistor and two capacitors) are on a single board along with the coil assembly.

The 300 Hz tuning fork can be seen in the picture of the movement. It is fixed to the back plate at the centre of the curve at the left hand end. The right hand end of the lower tine carries a cylindrical magnet that vibrates within the coil. The coil has two windings; one generates current from the movement of the cylindrical magnet which turns on a transistor; a second coil which in the collector circuit of the transistor then gives impulse to the tuning fork, maintaining its vibrations.

The right hand end of the upper vibrating tine carries a small horse-shoe magnet which interacts with the mu-metal escape wheel and drives the wheel round in continuous motion. The escape wheel is not self-starting, but is spun into motion by the hand-setting action. Once rotating, the escape wheel's speed is locked to the vibrations of the horse-shoe magnet. There is no mechanical connection between this magnet and the escape wheel.

Some pictures of the clock before restoration are attached.

Pic1 and Pic2 show the unrestored clock.
Pic3 shows the tuning fork movement.


  Pic1.jpg (Size: 278.24 KB / Downloads: 149)

  Pic2.jpg (Size: 255.8 KB / Downloads: 153)

  Pic3.jpg (Size: 225.92 KB / Downloads: 225) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3469 Tue, 11 Jun 2013 21:12:49 +0000 dennishoy]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3469
This clock has one of the expensive 'Junghans' German movements fitted, operating from a 'C' sized cell. This movement has a small mainspring which is wound up by flipping a dumbell shaped lever round a quarter-of-a-turn. The mainspring then operates a normal hairspring/balance wheel arrangement for 10-15 minutes. A moving contact on the dumbell shaped lever touches a fixed contact and the solenoid is activated which flips up the lever and the process repeats. A fixed resistor limits the current through the solenoid.

The clock had been dropped at some time with the battery fitted so there was plenty wrong with it. I removed the movement a while ago to assess it, but put it all into storage until a replacement movement could be found. I recently acquired another, non-working movement so it seemed like a good idea to make good one from the pair.

The damage to the dropped clock movement included a broken battery holder, a broken pivot on one end of the hairspring wheel and a coil with the armature floating instead of being hinged. The other movement had a cracked perspex cover and broken mainspring.

Firstly, I exchanged both movement cases (battery holders) and perspex covers. I then dismantled both movements and exchanged balance wheels and the corresponding jeweled bearings. The mechanical part of this movement is no bigger than a pocket watch so don't take it apart if you've no experience with small watch parts. This is by far the most difficult movement I have had to service as it is of 'layered' construction and everything falls out only after the final screw is removed. I exchanged solenoids and the only task remaining was to change over the mainsprings. This done, I then realised that a special tool is required to wind up the mainspring to remove all the slack. I think this needs to be wound up, such that there is just sufficient power to still (just) operate the balance wheel when the contacts close to flip up the lever. Too much tension, and the solenoid will not be able to flip up the lever against the power of the spring.

Unfortunately, I will have to make up a tool to fit the two slots in the adjusting mechanism on the back of the movement.

For now, I'll just post some pictures of what I've done so far with the rest to follow.
If anyone remembers the car Haynes manuals and those 'cuss marks' for difficulty level, this one I would rate at four out of five 'cuss marks' so it's not really a good movement for beginners to play with.

Pic 1 shows the battery holder, perspex cover and solenoid assembly.
Pic 2 shows the dismantled movement and broken mainspring.
Pic 3 shows the smaller parts of the balance wheel assembly.
Pic 4 shows the backplate into which the vsrious wheels fit.

I'll post further progress as I complete the clock.

  1.jpg (Size: 238.32 KB / Downloads: 76)

  2.jpg (Size: 208 KB / Downloads: 79)

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  4.jpg (Size: 221.24 KB / Downloads: 76) ]]>
This clock has one of the expensive 'Junghans' German movements fitted, operating from a 'C' sized cell. This movement has a small mainspring which is wound up by flipping a dumbell shaped lever round a quarter-of-a-turn. The mainspring then operates a normal hairspring/balance wheel arrangement for 10-15 minutes. A moving contact on the dumbell shaped lever touches a fixed contact and the solenoid is activated which flips up the lever and the process repeats. A fixed resistor limits the current through the solenoid.

The clock had been dropped at some time with the battery fitted so there was plenty wrong with it. I removed the movement a while ago to assess it, but put it all into storage until a replacement movement could be found. I recently acquired another, non-working movement so it seemed like a good idea to make good one from the pair.

The damage to the dropped clock movement included a broken battery holder, a broken pivot on one end of the hairspring wheel and a coil with the armature floating instead of being hinged. The other movement had a cracked perspex cover and broken mainspring.

Firstly, I exchanged both movement cases (battery holders) and perspex covers. I then dismantled both movements and exchanged balance wheels and the corresponding jeweled bearings. The mechanical part of this movement is no bigger than a pocket watch so don't take it apart if you've no experience with small watch parts. This is by far the most difficult movement I have had to service as it is of 'layered' construction and everything falls out only after the final screw is removed. I exchanged solenoids and the only task remaining was to change over the mainsprings. This done, I then realised that a special tool is required to wind up the mainspring to remove all the slack. I think this needs to be wound up, such that there is just sufficient power to still (just) operate the balance wheel when the contacts close to flip up the lever. Too much tension, and the solenoid will not be able to flip up the lever against the power of the spring.

Unfortunately, I will have to make up a tool to fit the two slots in the adjusting mechanism on the back of the movement.

For now, I'll just post some pictures of what I've done so far with the rest to follow.
If anyone remembers the car Haynes manuals and those 'cuss marks' for difficulty level, this one I would rate at four out of five 'cuss marks' so it's not really a good movement for beginners to play with.

Pic 1 shows the battery holder, perspex cover and solenoid assembly.
Pic 2 shows the dismantled movement and broken mainspring.
Pic 3 shows the smaller parts of the balance wheel assembly.
Pic 4 shows the backplate into which the vsrious wheels fit.

I'll post further progress as I complete the clock.

  1.jpg (Size: 238.32 KB / Downloads: 76)

  2.jpg (Size: 208 KB / Downloads: 79)

  3.jpg (Size: 176.54 KB / Downloads: 72)

  4.jpg (Size: 221.24 KB / Downloads: 76) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3453 Thu, 06 Jun 2013 21:55:28 +0000 dennishoy]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3453 Went to the local auction last night and picked up a Schatz ATO clock for £2 (not working).

These clocks followed on from the clumsy and unreliable 400 day mechanical clocks. They used the same baseplate, frame, dial and dome as the earlier, mechanical models. Perhaps they 'used up' the surplus stock of parts as far as possible.

The Schatz 400 day mechanical clocks are common, unreliable (in my opinion) and do not keep accurate time. They suffer damage if moved quickly or knocked and the key was often lost as it was only used once-a-year. I have several of these mechanical clocks and it is hard to get any of them to run for a year, let alone 400 days.

The early electronic version comprises of two separate assemblies powered by the same 1.5V battery ('C' cell). The clock is a two-transistor ATO movement which is not self-starting. It is a fairly accurate timekeeper once adjusted properly.

The rotating, 4-ball pendulum is for decorative purposes only and is not used for time keeping. This assembly is also a two-transistor circuit connected around a pair of coils. The pendulum has a pair of permanent magents fixed to it which pass either side of the coil assembly. One coil is a sensing or trigger coil; the other is a driven coil which is switched on as the trigger coil is energised, the resulting current generates a magnetic field which repels the pendulum to keep it moving.

So what was wrong with this clock? As usual, a rotten battery had turned the negative terminal into an insulator. Cleaning with a brass wire brush on a 'Dremel' restored the connection and 1.5V could now be measured on the clock and pendulum pcbs. However, the clock would not run, so I check and found one transistor was short circuit b-e. These early silicon types were not particularly reliable, especially if the battery had been inserted the wrong-way round at some time. The transistor was changed for a modern type and the clock ran well, keeping good time too.

The pendulum unit would not turn properly and upon closer examination, one of the permanent magnets had become detached and was sticking to the other magnet. I've seen this before and think the 50+ year old glue is no match for the attraction of two magnets close together and that which is least-stuck jumps across the gap and stick to the other magnet. I removed both magnets and used Araldite (yes, you can still get it - just!) to fix them back into their correct positions, remembering to fix one magnet and let it harden before doing the same with the other one, to avoid a repeat perfomance of the original fault.

Ok, all done and the unit was reassembled and tested on the bench. This particular design accurately mimics the original pendulum movement with a period of several seconds. Other makes are rubbish and the pendulum goes flying round like a kid's toy.

The pendulum unit worked fine on its own, but slowed down and stopped when the weighty pendulum itself was fitted. I dismantled it again and cleaned and polished the bearing surfaces, but it still stopped after 10-20 seconds. It seems there is a lack of power and more energy needs to be sent through the repulsion coil. A capacitor is discharged through the transistor and coil, so perhaps this has lost some microfarads over the years. Unfortunately, all the circuits are similar, but slightly different so I will have to trace out the connections around the pcb and make a drawing. The output transistor may have become leaky or lost gain so I will have a look at this too.

I suppose the point I am trying to make is that there is little interest in these clocks because they do not 'wind-up'. I have only ever seen around 3-4 of these clocks compared to several hundred mechanical clocks from the same era. Ok, they aren't everyones' cup-of-tea, but to be honest, I've spent many hours trying to get the mechanical type working again..... all for another couple of months before it packs up again.

I've posted some pictures of the bit as and pieces in case anyone is interested and will post one of the completed clock once i've solved the pendulum problem.

The first two pictures are the ATO clock movement. Notice the pair of coils under the balance wheel and my nice new shiny transistor.
The third picture is the pcb as removed from the pendulum assemby. You can see the double windings of the coil - one red winding and one green winding.
The fourth picture shows the dismantled pendulum assembly.
The fifth picture shows the repaired rotor with the magnets fixed in the correct positions. The coil in picture three passes between the magnets as the rotor moves.

I hope that helps should anyone decide to buy on of these clocks. You will need some basic clock repair skills as hairsprings and balance wheels are involved.
Thanks for reading.




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  06060005.jpg (Size: 170.93 KB / Downloads: 135) ]]> Went to the local auction last night and picked up a Schatz ATO clock for £2 (not working).

These clocks followed on from the clumsy and unreliable 400 day mechanical clocks. They used the same baseplate, frame, dial and dome as the earlier, mechanical models. Perhaps they 'used up' the surplus stock of parts as far as possible.

The Schatz 400 day mechanical clocks are common, unreliable (in my opinion) and do not keep accurate time. They suffer damage if moved quickly or knocked and the key was often lost as it was only used once-a-year. I have several of these mechanical clocks and it is hard to get any of them to run for a year, let alone 400 days.

The early electronic version comprises of two separate assemblies powered by the same 1.5V battery ('C' cell). The clock is a two-transistor ATO movement which is not self-starting. It is a fairly accurate timekeeper once adjusted properly.

The rotating, 4-ball pendulum is for decorative purposes only and is not used for time keeping. This assembly is also a two-transistor circuit connected around a pair of coils. The pendulum has a pair of permanent magents fixed to it which pass either side of the coil assembly. One coil is a sensing or trigger coil; the other is a driven coil which is switched on as the trigger coil is energised, the resulting current generates a magnetic field which repels the pendulum to keep it moving.

So what was wrong with this clock? As usual, a rotten battery had turned the negative terminal into an insulator. Cleaning with a brass wire brush on a 'Dremel' restored the connection and 1.5V could now be measured on the clock and pendulum pcbs. However, the clock would not run, so I check and found one transistor was short circuit b-e. These early silicon types were not particularly reliable, especially if the battery had been inserted the wrong-way round at some time. The transistor was changed for a modern type and the clock ran well, keeping good time too.

The pendulum unit would not turn properly and upon closer examination, one of the permanent magnets had become detached and was sticking to the other magnet. I've seen this before and think the 50+ year old glue is no match for the attraction of two magnets close together and that which is least-stuck jumps across the gap and stick to the other magnet. I removed both magnets and used Araldite (yes, you can still get it - just!) to fix them back into their correct positions, remembering to fix one magnet and let it harden before doing the same with the other one, to avoid a repeat perfomance of the original fault.

Ok, all done and the unit was reassembled and tested on the bench. This particular design accurately mimics the original pendulum movement with a period of several seconds. Other makes are rubbish and the pendulum goes flying round like a kid's toy.

The pendulum unit worked fine on its own, but slowed down and stopped when the weighty pendulum itself was fitted. I dismantled it again and cleaned and polished the bearing surfaces, but it still stopped after 10-20 seconds. It seems there is a lack of power and more energy needs to be sent through the repulsion coil. A capacitor is discharged through the transistor and coil, so perhaps this has lost some microfarads over the years. Unfortunately, all the circuits are similar, but slightly different so I will have to trace out the connections around the pcb and make a drawing. The output transistor may have become leaky or lost gain so I will have a look at this too.

I suppose the point I am trying to make is that there is little interest in these clocks because they do not 'wind-up'. I have only ever seen around 3-4 of these clocks compared to several hundred mechanical clocks from the same era. Ok, they aren't everyones' cup-of-tea, but to be honest, I've spent many hours trying to get the mechanical type working again..... all for another couple of months before it packs up again.

I've posted some pictures of the bit as and pieces in case anyone is interested and will post one of the completed clock once i've solved the pendulum problem.

The first two pictures are the ATO clock movement. Notice the pair of coils under the balance wheel and my nice new shiny transistor.
The third picture is the pcb as removed from the pendulum assemby. You can see the double windings of the coil - one red winding and one green winding.
The fourth picture shows the dismantled pendulum assembly.
The fifth picture shows the repaired rotor with the magnets fixed in the correct positions. The coil in picture three passes between the magnets as the rotor moves.

I hope that helps should anyone decide to buy on of these clocks. You will need some basic clock repair skills as hairsprings and balance wheels are involved.
Thanks for reading.




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  06060005.jpg (Size: 170.93 KB / Downloads: 135) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3431 Thu, 30 May 2013 23:53:08 +0000 boiss]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3431 It has a wooden pendulum with an adjustable large leaf.
Mike]]> It has a wooden pendulum with an adjustable large leaf.
Mike]]>