https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/ Mon, 20 Apr 2026 02:48:14 +0000 MyBB https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9252 Tue, 07 May 2024 04:50:36 +0000 Doodlebug]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9252 On checking, the 240v DC motor had continuity so the control board looked to be the culprit.
A replacement board looked pricy and always ready to try cutting corners, I set up a small Variac I had next to the lathe with full wave rectification on the output into the lathe motor.

All works well now except I might install a foot pedal
control as the emergency button is no longer in circuit.

So that's a few bob saved :-)]]> On checking, the 240v DC motor had continuity so the control board looked to be the culprit.
A replacement board looked pricy and always ready to try cutting corners, I set up a small Variac I had next to the lathe with full wave rectification on the output into the lathe motor.

All works well now except I might install a foot pedal
control as the emergency button is no longer in circuit.

So that's a few bob saved :-)]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8826 Mon, 20 Jun 2022 16:06:10 +0000 Andyf]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8826 https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8715 Sat, 22 Jan 2022 21:55:58 +0000 Geordie McBoyne]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8715 It was bought from a second-hand shop in Alnwick.

Geordie McBoyne.

  Lathe_4.jpg (Size: 489.91 KB / Downloads: 50)

  Lathe_3.jpg (Size: 277.65 KB / Downloads: 50)

  Lathe_Spare_Parts.jpg (Size: 319.6 KB / Downloads: 50) ]]> It was bought from a second-hand shop in Alnwick.

Geordie McBoyne.

  Lathe_4.jpg (Size: 489.91 KB / Downloads: 50)

  Lathe_3.jpg (Size: 277.65 KB / Downloads: 50)

  Lathe_Spare_Parts.jpg (Size: 319.6 KB / Downloads: 50) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8699 Mon, 03 Jan 2022 16:17:42 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8699
Obviously far too late to take it back so there are two options. Spend another £38 on a new one (and inspect it very carefully before purchase!) or somehow fix the dings.

Any ideas on how to fix the dings? I have offcuts which I could deliberately ding in order to practice. I doubt any repair could be invisible; even if I match the colour, the texture will be different. I suppose I could try steaming as a first step.

  ding.jpg (Size: 225.61 KB / Downloads: 37) ]]>
Obviously far too late to take it back so there are two options. Spend another £38 on a new one (and inspect it very carefully before purchase!) or somehow fix the dings.

Any ideas on how to fix the dings? I have offcuts which I could deliberately ding in order to practice. I doubt any repair could be invisible; even if I match the colour, the texture will be different. I suppose I could try steaming as a first step.

  ding.jpg (Size: 225.61 KB / Downloads: 37) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8494 Thu, 22 Jul 2021 12:17:54 +0000 Alistair D]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8494
There are a number of websites that cover this method and the link I have chosen is only one example.

https://www.instructables.com/Electrolyt...aka-Magic/

It struck me that this might be a good method for de-rusting radio chassis etc.

Al]]>
There are a number of websites that cover this method and the link I have chosen is only one example.

https://www.instructables.com/Electrolyt...aka-Magic/

It struck me that this might be a good method for de-rusting radio chassis etc.

Al]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8338 Thu, 25 Mar 2021 19:00:27 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8338
For as long as I can remember, the counterpart of that fitting on the right hand side has been missing. I'd like to replace it but have no idea what to search for.

I could improvise with some Meccano but would much prefer a nice bit of brassware. My metalworking skills aren't really up to making one.

  bureau_mech1 (Small).jpg (Size: 103.08 KB / Downloads: 52) ]]>
For as long as I can remember, the counterpart of that fitting on the right hand side has been missing. I'd like to replace it but have no idea what to search for.

I could improvise with some Meccano but would much prefer a nice bit of brassware. My metalworking skills aren't really up to making one.

  bureau_mech1 (Small).jpg (Size: 103.08 KB / Downloads: 52) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8212 Fri, 25 Dec 2020 10:53:31 +0000 Radio Fixer]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8212
Soba Optical Centrepunch 180970 From Chronos | eBay

Put 3 groups of 4 holes, over a 6 inch span, thru a 2mm Ali plate drilled out in two stages, pilot and 4.5mm.  The 4mm screws located perfectly in the tapped holes of linear bearings and leadscrew.

Gary]]>
Soba Optical Centrepunch 180970 From Chronos | eBay

Put 3 groups of 4 holes, over a 6 inch span, thru a 2mm Ali plate drilled out in two stages, pilot and 4.5mm.  The 4mm screws located perfectly in the tapped holes of linear bearings and leadscrew.

Gary]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8161 Tue, 17 Nov 2020 20:30:59 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8161 https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-trv4-...mm-x/26100 They're not cheap, £30 now, though rather less back then.

I've just had the 3rd valve body failure. I've also had 3 or 4 heads fail, with crumbling plastic. I can't say I'm happy. When the last valve body failed I decided that £30 was a bit rich so I decided to use a Peglers valve:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/terrier-3-whi...tid=225690
I've used quite a few Peglers products and the quality has always been first class.  That TRV is only about a year old so too soon to say about reliabilty but it feels better made than the Drayton. Smoother action, not so prone to making odd noises when almost closed. Pegler do a more expensive TRV with liquid thermostat element but the wax one seems fine.

I've ordered another Peglers valve to collect tomorrow morning. Then the usual faff of turning off lots of other rads, depressurising the system, replacing the valve, repressurising, rads back on. I turn off other rads to minimise loss of treated water.

I suspect this won't be the last time I do this. I could replace all the Draytons as a precaution but that's a fair bit of money and effort. So it will be one at a time and cursing on each occasion.]]> https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-trv4-...mm-x/26100 They're not cheap, £30 now, though rather less back then.

I've just had the 3rd valve body failure. I've also had 3 or 4 heads fail, with crumbling plastic. I can't say I'm happy. When the last valve body failed I decided that £30 was a bit rich so I decided to use a Peglers valve:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/terrier-3-whi...tid=225690
I've used quite a few Peglers products and the quality has always been first class.  That TRV is only about a year old so too soon to say about reliabilty but it feels better made than the Drayton. Smoother action, not so prone to making odd noises when almost closed. Pegler do a more expensive TRV with liquid thermostat element but the wax one seems fine.

I've ordered another Peglers valve to collect tomorrow morning. Then the usual faff of turning off lots of other rads, depressurising the system, replacing the valve, repressurising, rads back on. I turn off other rads to minimise loss of treated water.

I suspect this won't be the last time I do this. I could replace all the Draytons as a precaution but that's a fair bit of money and effort. So it will be one at a time and cursing on each occasion.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7872 Mon, 04 May 2020 15:03:11 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7872
This is one of the cheaper ones:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-r21...230v/2965v

Is that up to the job or should I be looking at this:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-hm8...230v/4410j

Or spending even more?

Both of these are single bevel. Double bevel is faster for complicated jobs but gives a more expensive and heavier machine. Any thoughts on whether it's worth having?]]>
This is one of the cheaper ones:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-r21...230v/2965v

Is that up to the job or should I be looking at this:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-hm8...230v/4410j

Or spending even more?

Both of these are single bevel. Double bevel is faster for complicated jobs but gives a more expensive and heavier machine. Any thoughts on whether it's worth having?]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7353 Fri, 15 Mar 2019 19:54:50 +0000 singlepentode69]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7353 Regards
Robin]]> Regards
Robin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7158 Sun, 28 Oct 2018 11:08:12 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7158
This stone birdbath, about 16" square, sits on a larger structure but that's not important here. Recently I cleaned it thoroughly with a pressure washer and now it leaks. Careful examination shows a fine crack running across the entire bath. Not very visible in photo. It's quite big near bottom left corner, then hairline going up and to the right until it's easily visible again to the right of top centre. Presumably it was crud in the crack that was stopping it leaking. It seems in no danger of falling apart. Yet. At the moment it's indoors drying out, pending a fix.

What do you suggest for fixing it? I've got Araldite which I can spread along the crack, then use a hairdryer to make it runnier to fill the crack. Some kind of thinner epoxy would probably be better but I don't think I have anything. I've got a little  bit of the fluid you use on slightly rotten wood to harden it, though not enough for this and I don't know how well it would work. It's a resin of some kind and it's a very mobile fluid.

Any better ideas?

  birdbath (Medium).jpg (Size: 274.53 KB / Downloads: 32) ]]>
This stone birdbath, about 16" square, sits on a larger structure but that's not important here. Recently I cleaned it thoroughly with a pressure washer and now it leaks. Careful examination shows a fine crack running across the entire bath. Not very visible in photo. It's quite big near bottom left corner, then hairline going up and to the right until it's easily visible again to the right of top centre. Presumably it was crud in the crack that was stopping it leaking. It seems in no danger of falling apart. Yet. At the moment it's indoors drying out, pending a fix.

What do you suggest for fixing it? I've got Araldite which I can spread along the crack, then use a hairdryer to make it runnier to fill the crack. Some kind of thinner epoxy would probably be better but I don't think I have anything. I've got a little  bit of the fluid you use on slightly rotten wood to harden it, though not enough for this and I don't know how well it would work. It's a resin of some kind and it's a very mobile fluid.

Any better ideas?

  birdbath (Medium).jpg (Size: 274.53 KB / Downloads: 32) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6691 Mon, 15 Jan 2018 10:41:23 +0000 bobalong1]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6691 ]]> ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6509 Sat, 26 Aug 2017 16:47:19 +0000 Sparks]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6509 Feeling like a change from ship models, a few days ago, I decided to try and build a semi-automatic bug key.      This type of  morse key was first developed in the United States.    Conventional morse keys move up and down, and both dots and dashes have to be made manually.     When I first went into passenger liners as a junior radio officer in 1965, I found it very hard going sending large numbers of messages, often containing hundreds of words.     My wrist was quickly in danger of seizing up, so I obtained a cheap Japanese bug key in Cape Town.     The bug key works horizontally, and the side of the palm can be rested on the desk.   Pushing the paddle to the right with the thumb, produces a string of dots by vibrating a piece of weighted steel spring with electrical contacts fitted.     Pushing it to the left with the forefinger, the dashes have to be made individually.    I found this a great help, and was soon able to send for considerable  lengths of time without getting tired.    In the next twelve years, I got through two Japanese bug keys, the first being accidentally dropped by the third radio officer when it was only a few weeks old.   That broke the paddle arm off, and I had to effect a temporary repair until I could replace it again in Cape Town.    Despite being quite cheap, I had no complaints about the Japanese keys, they were really good.   But I had heard that the American Vibroplex keys were the best of the best.    Eventually, I was able to purchase on in Houston, Texas, for about £50.     I used that one regularly from 1977 until leaving the sea in late 1992, and still have it today.   The key illustrated is purely my own design based on trial and error, and it took almost a week to get it working correctly.    I have compared it with my Vibroplex, and although I am a bit "rusty" at morse after 25 years, can still produce perfectly readable code, and cannot tell any difference in handling between mine and the Vibroplex,
I incorporated small ball races for the top and bottom bearings that gave a very smooth action.    The spring steel is a piece of a junior hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off.     The vertical pillars are all old rifle shells cut off to the correct length, and bolted to the acrylic base via holes drilled through ends.   The dent caused by the firing pins was a great guide for the drill.    The open tops were fitted with home-made caps made from brass, with a fancy brass bolt in the top for purely aesthetic reasons.     Solving the spring problem was beyond me, as I could nor find any springs small enough, or of the correct strength.    I got round this by using powerful neodymium magnets instead of springs, and they work really smoothly.    The tension can be easily adjusted by moving the magnets further apart, or closer together.     Neither could I get the dot contacts correct, so I used a small magnetic reed switch.   It is actuated by a magnet fixed the vibrating arm.    The speed of the dots can be adjusted by moving the brass weight along the vibrating arm.    The closer it is moved to the front of the key, the faster the dots.     Most of the construction is in brass.    The base and paddle are acrylic sheet and the finger knob is a small "button knob" normaly used for glass cabinets.
Bob
PS
Most of you will know what a bug key is, but I wrote this for my Facebook page!

  4 (Medium).JPG (Size: 120.59 KB / Downloads: 29)

  3 (Medium).JPG (Size: 131.91 KB / Downloads: 16)

  2 (Medium).JPG (Size: 118.08 KB / Downloads: 21)

  1 (Medium).JPG (Size: 107.84 KB / Downloads: 16) ]]> Feeling like a change from ship models, a few days ago, I decided to try and build a semi-automatic bug key.      This type of  morse key was first developed in the United States.    Conventional morse keys move up and down, and both dots and dashes have to be made manually.     When I first went into passenger liners as a junior radio officer in 1965, I found it very hard going sending large numbers of messages, often containing hundreds of words.     My wrist was quickly in danger of seizing up, so I obtained a cheap Japanese bug key in Cape Town.     The bug key works horizontally, and the side of the palm can be rested on the desk.   Pushing the paddle to the right with the thumb, produces a string of dots by vibrating a piece of weighted steel spring with electrical contacts fitted.     Pushing it to the left with the forefinger, the dashes have to be made individually.    I found this a great help, and was soon able to send for considerable  lengths of time without getting tired.    In the next twelve years, I got through two Japanese bug keys, the first being accidentally dropped by the third radio officer when it was only a few weeks old.   That broke the paddle arm off, and I had to effect a temporary repair until I could replace it again in Cape Town.    Despite being quite cheap, I had no complaints about the Japanese keys, they were really good.   But I had heard that the American Vibroplex keys were the best of the best.    Eventually, I was able to purchase on in Houston, Texas, for about £50.     I used that one regularly from 1977 until leaving the sea in late 1992, and still have it today.   The key illustrated is purely my own design based on trial and error, and it took almost a week to get it working correctly.    I have compared it with my Vibroplex, and although I am a bit "rusty" at morse after 25 years, can still produce perfectly readable code, and cannot tell any difference in handling between mine and the Vibroplex,
I incorporated small ball races for the top and bottom bearings that gave a very smooth action.    The spring steel is a piece of a junior hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off.     The vertical pillars are all old rifle shells cut off to the correct length, and bolted to the acrylic base via holes drilled through ends.   The dent caused by the firing pins was a great guide for the drill.    The open tops were fitted with home-made caps made from brass, with a fancy brass bolt in the top for purely aesthetic reasons.     Solving the spring problem was beyond me, as I could nor find any springs small enough, or of the correct strength.    I got round this by using powerful neodymium magnets instead of springs, and they work really smoothly.    The tension can be easily adjusted by moving the magnets further apart, or closer together.     Neither could I get the dot contacts correct, so I used a small magnetic reed switch.   It is actuated by a magnet fixed the vibrating arm.    The speed of the dots can be adjusted by moving the brass weight along the vibrating arm.    The closer it is moved to the front of the key, the faster the dots.     Most of the construction is in brass.    The base and paddle are acrylic sheet and the finger knob is a small "button knob" normaly used for glass cabinets.
Bob
PS
Most of you will know what a bug key is, but I wrote this for my Facebook page!

  4 (Medium).JPG (Size: 120.59 KB / Downloads: 29)

  3 (Medium).JPG (Size: 131.91 KB / Downloads: 16)

  2 (Medium).JPG (Size: 118.08 KB / Downloads: 21)

  1 (Medium).JPG (Size: 107.84 KB / Downloads: 16) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6409 Wed, 21 Jun 2017 15:45:36 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6409
Example of dowel screws:
http://www.theinsertcompany.com/wood_to_...dowels.php

One of the wingnuts is damaged (broken wing) so I'd like to replace it. Either with another wingnut or possibly better with an ordinary nut that I can tighten with a proper spanner. I suppose I'd like to replace all 4.

But what size is it? Major diamteer is just under 9.4mm and crude measurement with a steel rule suggests 16tpi. This narrows it down to M10 or 3/8" BSW according to a website I found with thread measuements. I have neither in stock In my stores I found some plastic nuts and bolts which are probably M10 and utterly unsuitable plus one stray nut which looks old enough to be BSW. Both fit though the M10? plastic is a touch tight while the presumed 3/8" BSW is a bit loose.

Can anyone help please? Either with a way to tell what I need and/or a few nuts.

PS: The table is new-ish (less than 20 years?) which hints at metric.]]>
Example of dowel screws:
http://www.theinsertcompany.com/wood_to_...dowels.php

One of the wingnuts is damaged (broken wing) so I'd like to replace it. Either with another wingnut or possibly better with an ordinary nut that I can tighten with a proper spanner. I suppose I'd like to replace all 4.

But what size is it? Major diamteer is just under 9.4mm and crude measurement with a steel rule suggests 16tpi. This narrows it down to M10 or 3/8" BSW according to a website I found with thread measuements. I have neither in stock In my stores I found some plastic nuts and bolts which are probably M10 and utterly unsuitable plus one stray nut which looks old enough to be BSW. Both fit though the M10? plastic is a touch tight while the presumed 3/8" BSW is a bit loose.

Can anyone help please? Either with a way to tell what I need and/or a few nuts.

PS: The table is new-ish (less than 20 years?) which hints at metric.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6165 Thu, 02 Feb 2017 08:54:34 +0000 davegsm82]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6165
I was prompted to build this as I reliased I had quite a few bush sets laying around, when I counted them I found that they numbered 12    I'm sure I didn't have that many last time I looked but ho-hum, seems like a real shame for them to not be on display.

On the shelf currently is 4x VTR103's, 4x TR82's (including a DL) and star of the show lower center is the good old MB60.

]]>
I was prompted to build this as I reliased I had quite a few bush sets laying around, when I counted them I found that they numbered 12    I'm sure I didn't have that many last time I looked but ho-hum, seems like a real shame for them to not be on display.

On the shelf currently is 4x VTR103's, 4x TR82's (including a DL) and star of the show lower center is the good old MB60.

]]>