https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/ Mon, 13 Apr 2026 04:16:38 +0000 MyBB https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9572 Wed, 11 Feb 2026 14:17:07 +0000 CambridgeWorks]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9572 Used it 10 mins, fully charged to 4 led and put it away. About Jan 16 2025, got it out to clean car saets and again one led.Put it on charge and cleaned car seats with old dyson vac.
Today, got it out again and 1 led, but did work for the 2 or 3 minutes needed.
Put it on charge again.
Full charge is 4 hours approx and run time given as 20 minutes.

Rang customer service and was told nothing wrong as designed for regular daily use then recharge and it is expected  the battery will go flat if not used for 3 weeks! This is because the battery never switches itself off when cleaner is switched off.
Told was my fault for incorrect use.
I tried explaining my background and understanding, but no joy.

Anyone any idea what is happening with this battery.

Thanks, Rob]]> Used it 10 mins, fully charged to 4 led and put it away. About Jan 16 2025, got it out to clean car saets and again one led.Put it on charge and cleaned car seats with old dyson vac.
Today, got it out again and 1 led, but did work for the 2 or 3 minutes needed.
Put it on charge again.
Full charge is 4 hours approx and run time given as 20 minutes.

Rang customer service and was told nothing wrong as designed for regular daily use then recharge and it is expected  the battery will go flat if not used for 3 weeks! This is because the battery never switches itself off when cleaner is switched off.
Told was my fault for incorrect use.
I tried explaining my background and understanding, but no joy.

Anyone any idea what is happening with this battery.

Thanks, Rob]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9414 Fri, 21 Feb 2025 11:28:17 +0000 Radio Fixer]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9414
The fan, with after use run timer, uses a 4060 14 stage ripple counter and oscillator chip.  The chip is powered by a simple transformerless supply from the Live input.

The oscillator is a couple of gates with feedback via a CR network.  The resistor includes a potentiometer which allows a variation in how long the fan stays on after the light switch is turned off.  The counter stages extend the basic oscillator frequency and the Q14 output swiches a 8906 thyristor to control the fan.

When the light is on, with the light switch in the ON position, the counter is being continually reset with the Q14 output low and the fan running.

When the light switch is turned off then the oscillator, which is running, provides input to the counter stages until Q14 goes high .  This turns off the fan and stops the oscillator via D2.

Checked a number of components and then changed the 4060 ‘chip’ which got the fan working properly again.

Just in case we get a few ‘noobies’ on the site do not ‘work’ on this type of circuit direct from the mains supply.  It definetly needs the use of a mains isolating transformer.

My way of removing the 4060 device was to first clean the solder pads with IPA or Cellulose thinners to remove the conformal coating.  This makes the pads heat quicker, with the iron, as too much prologed heat can make them come loose.  Then using a pair of flat cutters, with ground down tips, cut off each leg from the chip.  Now its a simple matter of hanging a pair of small forceps, on each pin in turn, and turning the PCB over and melting its solder. 


Gary

  Fan Timer.pdf (Size: 19.47 KB / Downloads: 23) ]]>
The fan, with after use run timer, uses a 4060 14 stage ripple counter and oscillator chip.  The chip is powered by a simple transformerless supply from the Live input.

The oscillator is a couple of gates with feedback via a CR network.  The resistor includes a potentiometer which allows a variation in how long the fan stays on after the light switch is turned off.  The counter stages extend the basic oscillator frequency and the Q14 output swiches a 8906 thyristor to control the fan.

When the light is on, with the light switch in the ON position, the counter is being continually reset with the Q14 output low and the fan running.

When the light switch is turned off then the oscillator, which is running, provides input to the counter stages until Q14 goes high .  This turns off the fan and stops the oscillator via D2.

Checked a number of components and then changed the 4060 ‘chip’ which got the fan working properly again.

Just in case we get a few ‘noobies’ on the site do not ‘work’ on this type of circuit direct from the mains supply.  It definetly needs the use of a mains isolating transformer.

My way of removing the 4060 device was to first clean the solder pads with IPA or Cellulose thinners to remove the conformal coating.  This makes the pads heat quicker, with the iron, as too much prologed heat can make them come loose.  Then using a pair of flat cutters, with ground down tips, cut off each leg from the chip.  Now its a simple matter of hanging a pair of small forceps, on each pin in turn, and turning the PCB over and melting its solder. 


Gary

  Fan Timer.pdf (Size: 19.47 KB / Downloads: 23) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9332 Tue, 10 Sep 2024 18:50:26 +0000 CambridgeWorks]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9332 For several weeks it started to smell after use, despite leaving door open and running a wash with a dishwasher tablet only. 
Last time we did this, I touched the glass door and it was cold, when it should have been hot.
Quick google suggested the element had gone and was a fairly common fault it seems.
Even a video showing how easy to change.
So, after withdrawing it from under the worktop ancd confirming the element was o/c, I ordered one from espares ( part of screwfix) at £19.95 + £6.95 next day delivery.
Upon arrival, it had the same markings as the original one but a 2024 year stamp.
It had arrived this morning and due to an innovative design involving one nut to push or pull the element towards the sealing gasket, it was replaced in a few minutes.
Most time was spent removing the washer from the very tight space under the worktop and replacing exactly where doors would line up.
It has been a reliable washer, straightforward to operate, smooth and quiet in operation, even at 1200rpm spin.
Looking around, even the pump looks like a few minutes to replace.
The online video (espares) showed the same element, but in a Bosch machine. That needed a lot of dismantling to do the replacement and cost maybe £100+ more when new!
I feel that this easy replacement and online availability of parts is a very positive step in maybe saving appliances that would otherwise be scrapped.
I realise that the same job carried out by a company could probably be £100-150 plus when callout, travelling, engineers time removing from fitted unit and vat is taken into account.
Rob]]> For several weeks it started to smell after use, despite leaving door open and running a wash with a dishwasher tablet only. 
Last time we did this, I touched the glass door and it was cold, when it should have been hot.
Quick google suggested the element had gone and was a fairly common fault it seems.
Even a video showing how easy to change.
So, after withdrawing it from under the worktop ancd confirming the element was o/c, I ordered one from espares ( part of screwfix) at £19.95 + £6.95 next day delivery.
Upon arrival, it had the same markings as the original one but a 2024 year stamp.
It had arrived this morning and due to an innovative design involving one nut to push or pull the element towards the sealing gasket, it was replaced in a few minutes.
Most time was spent removing the washer from the very tight space under the worktop and replacing exactly where doors would line up.
It has been a reliable washer, straightforward to operate, smooth and quiet in operation, even at 1200rpm spin.
Looking around, even the pump looks like a few minutes to replace.
The online video (espares) showed the same element, but in a Bosch machine. That needed a lot of dismantling to do the replacement and cost maybe £100+ more when new!
I feel that this easy replacement and online availability of parts is a very positive step in maybe saving appliances that would otherwise be scrapped.
I realise that the same job carried out by a company could probably be £100-150 plus when callout, travelling, engineers time removing from fitted unit and vat is taken into account.
Rob]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9213 Sat, 02 Mar 2024 12:23:42 +0000 boater sam]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9213 A transition model when Goblin started to manufacture for Swan.
All works but how do I get the light cover off to check the bulbs?
Does anyone collect these?]]> A transition model when Goblin started to manufacture for Swan.
All works but how do I get the light cover off to check the bulbs?
Does anyone collect these?]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9069 Sat, 15 Jul 2023 14:50:23 +0000 Radio Fixer]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9069

  Push button panel.jpg (Size: 42.59 KB / Downloads: 17)

Bought a new panel which replaces all the buttons for about £15.  Total strip to do it with about 25 screws (some 10mm and some 12mm so easy to mix them up).  Did the job and the machine back working ... for a day.  Then it blew the internal fuse which needs it turning over to remove a mains filter panel.  A genuine 8A ceramic fuse from anyone is about £12 + postage !  No! I bought a 'pack of three' clones from Ebay for £3.50 incl postage. 

This fault was the inside lamp bulb which had gone intermittent short.  Only genuine ones around for £16 + £6 quick postage.  Then its the groan of about 20 screws to take off two covers to replace.  AEG (Electrolux) have a reputation for making things difficult.   If the lamp is 10 years or so old, now I think its better to replace it anyway.

Its quite tricky taking all the thing apart, particularly the removal and replacement of the front panel but I'm wary about giving tips.  These units have HIGH VOLTAGES and a CAPACITOR that must be DISCHARGED.  Dont want to encourage folk who are not qualified to do this safely.

I would buy a Bosch another time. Browsing their Web Site I see they are providing Service Manuals now which is, I believe, an EU initiative to stop the throw away and buy new culture that has grown up around kitchen and white goods.

Gary]]>

  Push button panel.jpg (Size: 42.59 KB / Downloads: 17)

Bought a new panel which replaces all the buttons for about £15.  Total strip to do it with about 25 screws (some 10mm and some 12mm so easy to mix them up).  Did the job and the machine back working ... for a day.  Then it blew the internal fuse which needs it turning over to remove a mains filter panel.  A genuine 8A ceramic fuse from anyone is about £12 + postage !  No! I bought a 'pack of three' clones from Ebay for £3.50 incl postage. 

This fault was the inside lamp bulb which had gone intermittent short.  Only genuine ones around for £16 + £6 quick postage.  Then its the groan of about 20 screws to take off two covers to replace.  AEG (Electrolux) have a reputation for making things difficult.   If the lamp is 10 years or so old, now I think its better to replace it anyway.

Its quite tricky taking all the thing apart, particularly the removal and replacement of the front panel but I'm wary about giving tips.  These units have HIGH VOLTAGES and a CAPACITOR that must be DISCHARGED.  Dont want to encourage folk who are not qualified to do this safely.

I would buy a Bosch another time. Browsing their Web Site I see they are providing Service Manuals now which is, I believe, an EU initiative to stop the throw away and buy new culture that has grown up around kitchen and white goods.

Gary]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8934 Thu, 24 Nov 2022 11:35:24 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8934
The surprise was a Class Y 4700p cap from live to the motor casing. Since this is a Class II (double insulated) appliance I don't really see the purpose of that cap. Anyway, seeing as it was a Rifa, I replaced it.

Actually although it's obviously double insulated with a 2 core flex, it doesn't have the "square in square" logo. It may pre-date the logo.

  rifa.jpg (Size: 528.39 KB / Downloads: 19) ]]>
The surprise was a Class Y 4700p cap from live to the motor casing. Since this is a Class II (double insulated) appliance I don't really see the purpose of that cap. Anyway, seeing as it was a Rifa, I replaced it.

Actually although it's obviously double insulated with a 2 core flex, it doesn't have the "square in square" logo. It may pre-date the logo.

  rifa.jpg (Size: 528.39 KB / Downloads: 19) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8878 Mon, 05 Sep 2022 21:28:06 +0000 colly0410]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8878 https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8872 Fri, 26 Aug 2022 12:40:37 +0000 PerdioPal]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8872
  dpsu.jpg (Size: 178.04 KB / Downloads: 64) ]]>
  dpsu.jpg (Size: 178.04 KB / Downloads: 64) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8755 Wed, 23 Mar 2022 05:33:07 +0000 Nick]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8755
Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08CJGPHL9...WGYBQ134C3

It's very accurate, typically within a very few % (some say 1%) of the utility meter. My configuration is different to the one I've linked to - I have three 200A sensors and 8 x 50A wide aperture sensors.

It's circuit-based rather than outlet-based as its intended to be installed in a consumer unit.

As we have a reasonably complex 3-phase feed to our property, I'm installing one in our meter cupboard.

This is more complex than a CU installation as effectively I'm having to make a small CU for safety reasons.

I like the architecture and it's, IMHO, very reasonably priced. The unit handles single or three phase utility feeds up to 200A and up to 16 x 50A circuits. It monitors voltage and current drawing its own power (40mA) from one of the phases. It uses your WiFi and the app is cloud-based. There's a range of different sensors, e.g. I'm using wide-aperture CTs as rather than clipping onto 2.5mm circuits in a CU, my CTs are having to fit 10+mm meter tails.

Fairly new to the UK - the company is very popular in the USA.


  PXL_20220318_102449532_copy_1008x756.jpg (Size: 255.45 KB / Downloads: 34)

  PXL_20220316_112944573_copy_1008x756.jpg (Size: 240.39 KB / Downloads: 34) ]]>
Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08CJGPHL9...WGYBQ134C3

It's very accurate, typically within a very few % (some say 1%) of the utility meter. My configuration is different to the one I've linked to - I have three 200A sensors and 8 x 50A wide aperture sensors.

It's circuit-based rather than outlet-based as its intended to be installed in a consumer unit.

As we have a reasonably complex 3-phase feed to our property, I'm installing one in our meter cupboard.

This is more complex than a CU installation as effectively I'm having to make a small CU for safety reasons.

I like the architecture and it's, IMHO, very reasonably priced. The unit handles single or three phase utility feeds up to 200A and up to 16 x 50A circuits. It monitors voltage and current drawing its own power (40mA) from one of the phases. It uses your WiFi and the app is cloud-based. There's a range of different sensors, e.g. I'm using wide-aperture CTs as rather than clipping onto 2.5mm circuits in a CU, my CTs are having to fit 10+mm meter tails.

Fairly new to the UK - the company is very popular in the USA.


  PXL_20220318_102449532_copy_1008x756.jpg (Size: 255.45 KB / Downloads: 34)

  PXL_20220316_112944573_copy_1008x756.jpg (Size: 240.39 KB / Downloads: 34) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8613 Thu, 14 Oct 2021 06:26:17 +0000 Crackle]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8613 Because of the ready availability of Hotpoint spares and features like a separate grill control instead of a shared one, we decided to go for the Hotpoint Ultima HUE61XS Electric Cooker.

Over the next weeks we found various issues which resulted in the cooker not performing its job of cooking adequately. One of the issues was potentially very dangerous.
The points we noted were;
1. The oven has no vent to allow the gradual escape of sream so when you open the oven door a massive cloud of superheated steam erupts out and up to the ceiling and could easily scald your face and arms.
2. It takes up to 50% longer to cook than our old oven.
3. Have to turn oven up to 220 to cook a roast.
4. The hot plates keep switching off too soon, even on full power, resulting in slower cooking times and food not frying properly.
5. Puddles of water form under the front of the oven.
6. The oven fan turns off with the thermostat, this causes the temperature in the oven to become uneven.
7. Food on the lower shelves in the oven are under cooked as a result of 6. above.
8. Not enough adjustment on the Hot Plate controllers, 2 of the hot plate controls are not variable but have 6 preset positions, one position is too low (not simmering) the next position is too hot (boiling)

I raised all this with AO where we purchased it from. After a visit from a Hotpoint engineer who carried out no tests other than check the mains wiring and earth to the cooker. it was confirmed the cooker was performing as per specification. However AO were prepared to take the cooker back and refund initially 50% of the purchase price, this was later increased to refund 70% of the initial price.
AO then suggested they contact Hotpoint again and a second engineer visit was arranged.
This engineer used a temperature probe to check the oven, and I showed him the hot plate switching off its elements to regulate the temperature after only a minute or so on full power.

The oven control was set to 200C and the temperature varied between 208 and 166 degrees. He confirmed the cooker was not performing to spec +-10 deg. so was able to issue a "uplift number" meaning that the cooker could be sent back to Hotpoint and AO could issue a full refund.

It looks like we will be choosing a Zanussi ZCV66250WA, this cooker does have a vented oven, and we believe the oven fan stays on. However on this cooker all the hotplate controls have 6 preset positions, hopefully they will be better than the Hotpoint.
I would like to say that the customer service agent at AO has been very good and has helped a lot to get this resolved.
Mike]]> Because of the ready availability of Hotpoint spares and features like a separate grill control instead of a shared one, we decided to go for the Hotpoint Ultima HUE61XS Electric Cooker.

Over the next weeks we found various issues which resulted in the cooker not performing its job of cooking adequately. One of the issues was potentially very dangerous.
The points we noted were;
1. The oven has no vent to allow the gradual escape of sream so when you open the oven door a massive cloud of superheated steam erupts out and up to the ceiling and could easily scald your face and arms.
2. It takes up to 50% longer to cook than our old oven.
3. Have to turn oven up to 220 to cook a roast.
4. The hot plates keep switching off too soon, even on full power, resulting in slower cooking times and food not frying properly.
5. Puddles of water form under the front of the oven.
6. The oven fan turns off with the thermostat, this causes the temperature in the oven to become uneven.
7. Food on the lower shelves in the oven are under cooked as a result of 6. above.
8. Not enough adjustment on the Hot Plate controllers, 2 of the hot plate controls are not variable but have 6 preset positions, one position is too low (not simmering) the next position is too hot (boiling)

I raised all this with AO where we purchased it from. After a visit from a Hotpoint engineer who carried out no tests other than check the mains wiring and earth to the cooker. it was confirmed the cooker was performing as per specification. However AO were prepared to take the cooker back and refund initially 50% of the purchase price, this was later increased to refund 70% of the initial price.
AO then suggested they contact Hotpoint again and a second engineer visit was arranged.
This engineer used a temperature probe to check the oven, and I showed him the hot plate switching off its elements to regulate the temperature after only a minute or so on full power.

The oven control was set to 200C and the temperature varied between 208 and 166 degrees. He confirmed the cooker was not performing to spec +-10 deg. so was able to issue a "uplift number" meaning that the cooker could be sent back to Hotpoint and AO could issue a full refund.

It looks like we will be choosing a Zanussi ZCV66250WA, this cooker does have a vented oven, and we believe the oven fan stays on. However on this cooker all the hotplate controls have 6 preset positions, hopefully they will be better than the Hotpoint.
I would like to say that the customer service agent at AO has been very good and has helped a lot to get this resolved.
Mike]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8547 Thu, 09 Sep 2021 14:04:15 +0000 Craig]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8547
The aim, according to the Government is to reduce greenhouse emissions, and save customers money.

Let's unpack that. The ban on halogen and strip lights will reduce emissions by 1.26 million tons per annum, or 1.26/70 tons per person per annum = 0.018 tons

Current greenhouse gas emissions in the UK, 6.8 tons per capita. So banning these lights will reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 0.26%.

Plus halogen lamp manufacture is mature, and cheap to manufacture. LED replacements have hidden energy cost in manufacture - semiconductor clean rooms and hazardous chemicals such as arsenic, gallium and indium.

And of course they are (currently) 5x the price of the halogen lamp.

Craig]]>
The aim, according to the Government is to reduce greenhouse emissions, and save customers money.

Let's unpack that. The ban on halogen and strip lights will reduce emissions by 1.26 million tons per annum, or 1.26/70 tons per person per annum = 0.018 tons

Current greenhouse gas emissions in the UK, 6.8 tons per capita. So banning these lights will reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 0.26%.

Plus halogen lamp manufacture is mature, and cheap to manufacture. LED replacements have hidden energy cost in manufacture - semiconductor clean rooms and hazardous chemicals such as arsenic, gallium and indium.

And of course they are (currently) 5x the price of the halogen lamp.

Craig]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8502 Wed, 28 Jul 2021 20:15:13 +0000 Bushbaby]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8502 https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8387 Mon, 03 May 2021 08:23:52 +0000 Radio Fixer]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8387
Bought the new seal from eSpares that have a video of how to do it.  All easy until the last bit of putting on a steel wire ring with a very very strong spring in it.  This secures the outer part that is lipped over the front of the washer.  After several attempts decided it was impossible as others had found.  Perhaps Bosch have a special tool?  As a temporary fix I 'daisy chained' tie wraps around it.

Later I found a video from Aus where the chap, who sounded South African, used a metal hook tool with a handle, through the spring eyelet, to pull it on for the last bit.  Bought the tool but still couldnt do it  

So finally, deciding that when the door is closed it compresses the seal to the front anyway I changed the spring to something lighter.  Unfortunately the only one I had was much lighter but it works.

So far, several washes later there are no leaks  

Gary]]>
Bought the new seal from eSpares that have a video of how to do it.  All easy until the last bit of putting on a steel wire ring with a very very strong spring in it.  This secures the outer part that is lipped over the front of the washer.  After several attempts decided it was impossible as others had found.  Perhaps Bosch have a special tool?  As a temporary fix I 'daisy chained' tie wraps around it.

Later I found a video from Aus where the chap, who sounded South African, used a metal hook tool with a handle, through the spring eyelet, to pull it on for the last bit.  Bought the tool but still couldnt do it  

So finally, deciding that when the door is closed it compresses the seal to the front anyway I changed the spring to something lighter.  Unfortunately the only one I had was much lighter but it works.

So far, several washes later there are no leaks  

Gary]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8271 Mon, 15 Feb 2021 08:33:19 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8271
While it's not a true domestic emergency I decided on balance that I could go and have a look. Especially as the presence of a tape bomb sugegsted there might be a genuine hazard. I had to repeat measurements several times to convince myself about what I'd found. Both live and neutral were open circuit between the CU and the outlet. Earth was OK but that could have been a fortuitous path. The presumed cable route was over the ceiling and down so my though was that the upstairs neighbour had done something silly unde their floorboards. This was denied. If it had been just one core then I might have believed mice though 2.5mm T+E would be pretty tough for them. Neither the RCD nor MCB (16A) had tripped.

I am truly puzzled byt this one. I wonder if I will ever find the true cause of the fault.

I did resolve the tape bomb. They'd had a new (to them) dishwasher installed. The installer should have fitted a socket instead of the flex outlet plate but wired the new machine into the flex outlet. Subsequently the machine had been taken away for repair. The repairer had obviously just cut the flex and used a tape bomb to rejoin it.

The immediate fix was putting a plug on the flex and using an extension to connect it to another socket. I also disconencted the circuit at the CU. The long term fix will be a new socket on the kitchen ring whose cables pass close by and are readily accessible. The kitchen ring doesn't have any other heavy loads so it will be fine.]]>
While it's not a true domestic emergency I decided on balance that I could go and have a look. Especially as the presence of a tape bomb sugegsted there might be a genuine hazard. I had to repeat measurements several times to convince myself about what I'd found. Both live and neutral were open circuit between the CU and the outlet. Earth was OK but that could have been a fortuitous path. The presumed cable route was over the ceiling and down so my though was that the upstairs neighbour had done something silly unde their floorboards. This was denied. If it had been just one core then I might have believed mice though 2.5mm T+E would be pretty tough for them. Neither the RCD nor MCB (16A) had tripped.

I am truly puzzled byt this one. I wonder if I will ever find the true cause of the fault.

I did resolve the tape bomb. They'd had a new (to them) dishwasher installed. The installer should have fitted a socket instead of the flex outlet plate but wired the new machine into the flex outlet. Subsequently the machine had been taken away for repair. The repairer had obviously just cut the flex and used a tape bomb to rejoin it.

The immediate fix was putting a plug on the flex and using an extension to connect it to another socket. I also disconencted the circuit at the CU. The long term fix will be a new socket on the kitchen ring whose cables pass close by and are readily accessible. The kitchen ring doesn't have any other heavy loads so it will be fine.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8240 Wed, 20 Jan 2021 09:26:45 +0000 Radio Fixer]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8240
Gary]]>
Gary]]>