https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/ Wed, 21 Oct 2026 17:56:37 +0000 MyBB https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9745 Mon, 12 Oct 2026 15:07:05 +0000 Theodosea]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9745 Regards Nick]]> Regards Nick]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9685 Wed, 26 Aug 2026 12:33:40 +0000 CaptainPugwash]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9685 So, I bought one of these from E-Bay, sale or repair a few weeks ago. It's now up and running exactly as expected given its age and this is the story of how that happened.

So, when I received it, it powered up but the output was no greater than 12uW and off frequency by anything between 27 and 200Mhz depending on the thumbwheels.

Anyway, 1st things first as with all equipment of this age. The power supply. Changed nearly all of the electrolytic caps just for safety more than anything. A quick check and tweak and all supply voltages stable and more importantly, ripple free.

Next, check over all the thumbwheels and all outputting the corresponding bcd code when called on. However, the lock light was always off and checking the tuning voltage from the output of the synthesiser, it sat at a constant 22V. Something amiss!

Chased the logic through the synth and ended up replacing all the caps on that board along with the following ICs. 2,3,4,5 and 12. I also removed IC and fitted a socket for it for future repairability. Also cut the tuning voltage track and fitted a removable link. More on that later.

Some success, now locking at 10, 11 12 and 13 Mhz. Nothing higher though. 

Onwards to the prescaler. Well, when I took the RF cover off, it looked like a one handed gorilla wearing a boxing glove had been let loose with a welder. In all my years repairing electronic equipment, I've never seen such poor soldering. I'm surprised that the thing didn't go bang when I powered it up, which teaches me at least to make a more thorough inspection before applying power in future to things bought a repair items 

Anyway, I again changed all the caps, cleaned up the messy soldering and as per the synth, broke the hard wired link on the board and fitted a removable one.

From there, I replaced all of the rotted co-axial cable that was being used to carry DC with new cable and discovered the output from IC 7 to be wondering around once above 13Mhz. It was also getting red hot. So, replaced both IC6 and 7 as they are used as dividers. Still not locking above 13Mhz, but running cooler with no residual noise. 

Had a further deep dive and found that transistor VT1, a bfr90 faulty. Replaced that and great news. Synth now locking across all frequencies. 

Now to align it. This is where experience counts as the manual isn't the best. You recall, I cut the tuning voltage track on the synth. This is why. I removed the link and fed the oscillators with an external power supply. Starting on the 10Mhz range, I set the oscillator tuning coil grub 3 1/2
turns in from being level with the top of the coil. Don't ask me how I knew to do that. It's just years of experince working with early synthesisers.

Anyhow, adjusted the external supply to get exactly 10 Mhz and noted voltage which is 2.52V. Then worked though the other oscillators with the supply at that voltage and tuned each coil to its corresponding lowest frequency, or as close as I could get it.

Then repeated the whole exercise again, but this time starting at the maximum frequency for the 10-13.999Mhz range, and rinsing and repeating for the others. Went through this about a dozen times, making slight tweaks as I went along to ensure that everything flowed smoothly. Tuning range voltage between 2.7 and 17.9 approx.

Once I was happy with the oscillators, replaced the link to the synth tuning output and checked to make sure synth locked across the entire range, which it does. So now I had to tackle the low power out.

Anyway, that turned out to be a completely missing link between the amp/modulator board and the step attenuator. Fitted and now have up to 7dBm output across the entire frequency range, stable, clean, well on my spectrum analyser at least and remains so over long periods of time. Even from cold within 50 Hz.

Next job then, check the AM and FM modulation. Well, a nice surprise. Nothing to do on the AM side except a quick alignment as per the service manual. Spot on, 1005Hz and 412Hz, which is close enough for me, with amplitude depth exactly tracking against my Marconi 2955 test set.

FM. Zilch, nada, nought. Onto the FM correction board then. I noticed in the manual that it has a test point that when dropped to earth through a 1.5k resistor starts the latch, at which point I get FM. Not at the level expected, but it's a start. End up replacing IC21, 17. All caps and diodes D7,8,9 and 10. Fantastic. Now have FM. Aligned and mostly where its meant to be. The front panel power meter is a bit slow responding so I need to try and find a suitable replacement. But all in all, fingers crossed, a long term success story.

Just wanted to share in case anyone else has one of these. I still have a little work to do on it. Mostly replaceing rotted cables. But that's now a nice easy 'Saturday potter' day when the Mr's has stopped finding me things to do.]]> So, I bought one of these from E-Bay, sale or repair a few weeks ago. It's now up and running exactly as expected given its age and this is the story of how that happened.

So, when I received it, it powered up but the output was no greater than 12uW and off frequency by anything between 27 and 200Mhz depending on the thumbwheels.

Anyway, 1st things first as with all equipment of this age. The power supply. Changed nearly all of the electrolytic caps just for safety more than anything. A quick check and tweak and all supply voltages stable and more importantly, ripple free.

Next, check over all the thumbwheels and all outputting the corresponding bcd code when called on. However, the lock light was always off and checking the tuning voltage from the output of the synthesiser, it sat at a constant 22V. Something amiss!

Chased the logic through the synth and ended up replacing all the caps on that board along with the following ICs. 2,3,4,5 and 12. I also removed IC and fitted a socket for it for future repairability. Also cut the tuning voltage track and fitted a removable link. More on that later.

Some success, now locking at 10, 11 12 and 13 Mhz. Nothing higher though. 

Onwards to the prescaler. Well, when I took the RF cover off, it looked like a one handed gorilla wearing a boxing glove had been let loose with a welder. In all my years repairing electronic equipment, I've never seen such poor soldering. I'm surprised that the thing didn't go bang when I powered it up, which teaches me at least to make a more thorough inspection before applying power in future to things bought a repair items 

Anyway, I again changed all the caps, cleaned up the messy soldering and as per the synth, broke the hard wired link on the board and fitted a removable one.

From there, I replaced all of the rotted co-axial cable that was being used to carry DC with new cable and discovered the output from IC 7 to be wondering around once above 13Mhz. It was also getting red hot. So, replaced both IC6 and 7 as they are used as dividers. Still not locking above 13Mhz, but running cooler with no residual noise. 

Had a further deep dive and found that transistor VT1, a bfr90 faulty. Replaced that and great news. Synth now locking across all frequencies. 

Now to align it. This is where experience counts as the manual isn't the best. You recall, I cut the tuning voltage track on the synth. This is why. I removed the link and fed the oscillators with an external power supply. Starting on the 10Mhz range, I set the oscillator tuning coil grub 3 1/2
turns in from being level with the top of the coil. Don't ask me how I knew to do that. It's just years of experince working with early synthesisers.

Anyhow, adjusted the external supply to get exactly 10 Mhz and noted voltage which is 2.52V. Then worked though the other oscillators with the supply at that voltage and tuned each coil to its corresponding lowest frequency, or as close as I could get it.

Then repeated the whole exercise again, but this time starting at the maximum frequency for the 10-13.999Mhz range, and rinsing and repeating for the others. Went through this about a dozen times, making slight tweaks as I went along to ensure that everything flowed smoothly. Tuning range voltage between 2.7 and 17.9 approx.

Once I was happy with the oscillators, replaced the link to the synth tuning output and checked to make sure synth locked across the entire range, which it does. So now I had to tackle the low power out.

Anyway, that turned out to be a completely missing link between the amp/modulator board and the step attenuator. Fitted and now have up to 7dBm output across the entire frequency range, stable, clean, well on my spectrum analyser at least and remains so over long periods of time. Even from cold within 50 Hz.

Next job then, check the AM and FM modulation. Well, a nice surprise. Nothing to do on the AM side except a quick alignment as per the service manual. Spot on, 1005Hz and 412Hz, which is close enough for me, with amplitude depth exactly tracking against my Marconi 2955 test set.

FM. Zilch, nada, nought. Onto the FM correction board then. I noticed in the manual that it has a test point that when dropped to earth through a 1.5k resistor starts the latch, at which point I get FM. Not at the level expected, but it's a start. End up replacing IC21, 17. All caps and diodes D7,8,9 and 10. Fantastic. Now have FM. Aligned and mostly where its meant to be. The front panel power meter is a bit slow responding so I need to try and find a suitable replacement. But all in all, fingers crossed, a long term success story.

Just wanted to share in case anyone else has one of these. I still have a little work to do on it. Mostly replaceing rotted cables. But that's now a nice easy 'Saturday potter' day when the Mr's has stopped finding me things to do.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9684 Wed, 26 Aug 2026 09:23:12 +0000 Theodosea]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9684
I picked up a bare 6Amp variac at a radio rally and made up this enclosure  - the steel cabinets are from TLC Electrical wholesalers and are around £30 - well made and perfect for these types of project.

The isolation transformer - using 1:1 toroidal transformer, for powering up unknown repair items safely, when I first built this I had a few problems with the transformer tripping my consumer unit - these toroidal transformers do create quite a surge on start up so I fitted a BC socket inside the enclosure with a 40watt incandescent lamp which I can switch in series with the mains incoming for first switch on, it absorbs the surge, I then  throw the switch and this shorts out the lamp ready for use. (it works well as long as I remember to set the switch!)

Also built a current absorption device - lightbulb! this is useful for test items that may be short-circuited.

I recently acquired an AVO RF135 Audio/radio frequency signal generator for a recent FM Radio repair and set up, but prob wont ever use it again as I have a Gould AF sig gen for general use. this is available for sale if someone can make use of it.]]>
I picked up a bare 6Amp variac at a radio rally and made up this enclosure  - the steel cabinets are from TLC Electrical wholesalers and are around £30 - well made and perfect for these types of project.

The isolation transformer - using 1:1 toroidal transformer, for powering up unknown repair items safely, when I first built this I had a few problems with the transformer tripping my consumer unit - these toroidal transformers do create quite a surge on start up so I fitted a BC socket inside the enclosure with a 40watt incandescent lamp which I can switch in series with the mains incoming for first switch on, it absorbs the surge, I then  throw the switch and this shorts out the lamp ready for use. (it works well as long as I remember to set the switch!)

Also built a current absorption device - lightbulb! this is useful for test items that may be short-circuited.

I recently acquired an AVO RF135 Audio/radio frequency signal generator for a recent FM Radio repair and set up, but prob wont ever use it again as I have a Gould AF sig gen for general use. this is available for sale if someone can make use of it.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9672 Mon, 06 Jul 2026 21:13:17 +0000 Mike Watterson]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9672
The Prolink-2 is obviously vintage as it uses a mono CRT and 2 x 6V Lead acid packs in parallel!

Prolink-2 Premium has a knob instead of up/down, colour LCD and Lithium Ion battery, but otherwise seems similar.

It seems to do most Analogue TV modes and also Mpeg-2 Digital. It does work as an FM radio!
All TV here is DVB-T, not DVB-T2, but all is Mpeg4, not 2, even for SD.
Oddly has a BNC. It can send Diseq and power LNBs or masthead amps (up to 24V). Curiously I have BNC to Belling lee and F-Connector.

However I bought it as a cheap 45-862 and 900-2100 MHz spectrum analyser. Which seems to sort of work.

I found that 5 x NiMH wasn't enough and it seems OK with 6 x C size 4 Ah NiMH instead of the 2x 3Ah Lead acid in parallel (marked Peak 7.5V).

It wouldn't run off the bench PSU (3A) set to 12V without a 6000uF cap. A surge just after boot. Takes just under 3A.

I have a 14V 4A PSU which measures 14.3 open circuit or on 1A load. Not too much if it's designed for vehicle charging / power, but the brochure and the later Prolink-2 Premium manual don't have a spec with voltage limits.

It's a cute mono CRT!

So questions
1. Anyone got the proper user manual? The Promax Eng & Spa sites have the Prolink-1 and Prolink-3 and later, but neither of the Prolink-2 models.

2. Anyone know the max external voltage? Or a sane way to drop 2V.

3. There is unpopulated PCB with ID numbers for parts. What might that be for?

4. It's got a SCART! Is that for just output or input or both? The Prolink-2 Premium manual lists the signals.

5. Could the CRT heater be running straight off the battery? 7.5V of original when fully charged couldn't be good?

6. Actual schematic etc :D]]>
The Prolink-2 is obviously vintage as it uses a mono CRT and 2 x 6V Lead acid packs in parallel!

Prolink-2 Premium has a knob instead of up/down, colour LCD and Lithium Ion battery, but otherwise seems similar.

It seems to do most Analogue TV modes and also Mpeg-2 Digital. It does work as an FM radio!
All TV here is DVB-T, not DVB-T2, but all is Mpeg4, not 2, even for SD.
Oddly has a BNC. It can send Diseq and power LNBs or masthead amps (up to 24V). Curiously I have BNC to Belling lee and F-Connector.

However I bought it as a cheap 45-862 and 900-2100 MHz spectrum analyser. Which seems to sort of work.

I found that 5 x NiMH wasn't enough and it seems OK with 6 x C size 4 Ah NiMH instead of the 2x 3Ah Lead acid in parallel (marked Peak 7.5V).

It wouldn't run off the bench PSU (3A) set to 12V without a 6000uF cap. A surge just after boot. Takes just under 3A.

I have a 14V 4A PSU which measures 14.3 open circuit or on 1A load. Not too much if it's designed for vehicle charging / power, but the brochure and the later Prolink-2 Premium manual don't have a spec with voltage limits.

It's a cute mono CRT!

So questions
1. Anyone got the proper user manual? The Promax Eng & Spa sites have the Prolink-1 and Prolink-3 and later, but neither of the Prolink-2 models.

2. Anyone know the max external voltage? Or a sane way to drop 2V.

3. There is unpopulated PCB with ID numbers for parts. What might that be for?

4. It's got a SCART! Is that for just output or input or both? The Prolink-2 Premium manual lists the signals.

5. Could the CRT heater be running straight off the battery? 7.5V of original when fully charged couldn't be good?

6. Actual schematic etc :D]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9671 Mon, 06 Jul 2026 11:15:13 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9671
A colleague switched it on. Panel lights appeared followed by magic smoke and the swear word "Rifas". Manuals readily available online. PSU circuit attached. It's Philips' own design of switchmode. I have little experience of this kind of PSU so any pointers before I get out the isolating transformer and start probing?

I also brought home a Tek 2465 which probably needs a hybrid and a Tek 1751A waveform and vector monitor which has an obscure fault. Hours of fun.

  p156.pdf (Size: 138.53 KB / Downloads: 6) ]]>
A colleague switched it on. Panel lights appeared followed by magic smoke and the swear word "Rifas". Manuals readily available online. PSU circuit attached. It's Philips' own design of switchmode. I have little experience of this kind of PSU so any pointers before I get out the isolating transformer and start probing?

I also brought home a Tek 2465 which probably needs a hybrid and a Tek 1751A waveform and vector monitor which has an obscure fault. Hours of fun.

  p156.pdf (Size: 138.53 KB / Downloads: 6) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9670 Sun, 05 Jul 2026 12:11:44 +0000 boater sam]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9670
Is there a way to check the calibration using a radio or anything else simple?

Sam.]]>
Is there a way to check the calibration using a radio or anything else simple?

Sam.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9621 Sat, 28 Mar 2026 15:22:19 +0000 Thorpey]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9621 Anyone got any pointers or experience with the unit.
Will probably hook it up and see where we go with a little RF and gradually increase it, I believe they are 100w but have no paperwork.]]> Anyone got any pointers or experience with the unit.
Will probably hook it up and see where we go with a little RF and gradually increase it, I believe they are 100w but have no paperwork.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9579 Fri, 13 Feb 2026 21:35:55 +0000 Oemspace]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9579
Thanks 

?]]>
Thanks 

?]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9563 Wed, 28 Jan 2026 11:35:15 +0000 Nigel.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9563 Hi I'm trying to download the service manual for the Pye SG5U I'm trying to repair this sig gen  with no RF output.  I have tried to download the pdf files on this site but with no luck ( say's access denied) if anyone could help 
Regards Nigel G0TUP ]]> Hi I'm trying to download the service manual for the Pye SG5U I'm trying to repair this sig gen  with no RF output.  I have tried to download the pdf files on this site but with no luck ( say's access denied) if anyone could help 
Regards Nigel G0TUP ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9490 Tue, 26 Aug 2025 17:05:54 +0000 DrStrangelove]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9490
I've had a TM8 for many years.

Turned it on today: dead as a dodo.

Changed the fuse & powered up via The Big Green Light Box (fortunately).

It's a royal pain to dismantle and eventually once in bits turned out to be a shorted 1000uF reservoir capacitor.

Worked ok in bits.

Reassembled with difficulty and lo! suddenly it's very odd.

And then the Big Green Light Box lit up in approved fashion.

No idea what's wrong with the TM8 now, but I'd wager the mains transformer is shorted.

There's a HP3586C that would do the job I was attempting, but there's even less chance of that working than of fixing the TM8.

Also the 3586 is too big & heavy to shift.

Ho hum.]]>
I've had a TM8 for many years.

Turned it on today: dead as a dodo.

Changed the fuse & powered up via The Big Green Light Box (fortunately).

It's a royal pain to dismantle and eventually once in bits turned out to be a shorted 1000uF reservoir capacitor.

Worked ok in bits.

Reassembled with difficulty and lo! suddenly it's very odd.

And then the Big Green Light Box lit up in approved fashion.

No idea what's wrong with the TM8 now, but I'd wager the mains transformer is shorted.

There's a HP3586C that would do the job I was attempting, but there's even less chance of that working than of fixing the TM8.

Also the 3586 is too big & heavy to shift.

Ho hum.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9485 Wed, 20 Aug 2025 20:37:07 +0000 djrm]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9485
  IMG_20250817_204428740_HDR-COLLAGE.jpg (Size: 313.48 KB / Downloads: 26)

My other acquisitions are more interesting, I have a Tektronix 2236 'scope. This one has a built in DVM VFD display to measure input waveform properties and also conventional 4mm jack inputs to use it as a traditional DVM. A precursor to modern scopes with everything displayed on the screen. its mainly working now, I'm waiting for some replacement transistors to fix the vertical display. The HP scope is a 1740A, I cant get the timebase to trigger so a bit more manual reading needed to identify where the problem could lie. The vectorscope and monitor are working, Ive tested them on my colour bar generator - a RIFA cap inside gave up during this test put it hasn't caused any further damage - I'm glad I tested it in the shed though because it smelt awful.

Best regards, David.]]>
  IMG_20250817_204428740_HDR-COLLAGE.jpg (Size: 313.48 KB / Downloads: 26)

My other acquisitions are more interesting, I have a Tektronix 2236 'scope. This one has a built in DVM VFD display to measure input waveform properties and also conventional 4mm jack inputs to use it as a traditional DVM. A precursor to modern scopes with everything displayed on the screen. its mainly working now, I'm waiting for some replacement transistors to fix the vertical display. The HP scope is a 1740A, I cant get the timebase to trigger so a bit more manual reading needed to identify where the problem could lie. The vectorscope and monitor are working, Ive tested them on my colour bar generator - a RIFA cap inside gave up during this test put it hasn't caused any further damage - I'm glad I tested it in the shed though because it smelt awful.

Best regards, David.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9465 Wed, 02 Jul 2025 12:11:05 +0000 ppppenguin]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9465
I have the original user and maintenance manuals as supplied. They don't contain schematics, not even a decent block diagram. There is a list of modules, their functions and a few photos showing their locations. Unlike many Tektronix manuals, there is no faultfinding guide.

Looking at this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VhyDC1DTCk&t=36s  it looks like there's a lithium thionyl chloride battery in there which is probably now dead. The manual mentions EEPROMs so it's not clear if calibration data is stored in battery backed RAM or not.

Any ideas? I'm off to the Broadcast Engineering Museum for a few days so won't be looking a the 4195A immediately.]]>
I have the original user and maintenance manuals as supplied. They don't contain schematics, not even a decent block diagram. There is a list of modules, their functions and a few photos showing their locations. Unlike many Tektronix manuals, there is no faultfinding guide.

Looking at this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VhyDC1DTCk&t=36s  it looks like there's a lithium thionyl chloride battery in there which is probably now dead. The manual mentions EEPROMs so it's not clear if calibration data is stored in battery backed RAM or not.

Any ideas? I'm off to the Broadcast Engineering Museum for a few days so won't be looking a the 4195A immediately.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9419 Mon, 10 Mar 2025 13:54:48 +0000 Cagenut]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9419
Recently bought a Farnell PSG520H synthesized signal generator, it was cheap for a reason...the frequency thumb wheels are hit and miss, and no modulation output, any info, service manuals or schematics would be greatly appreciated, would be very willing to pay for any copies

Regards Steve]]>
Recently bought a Farnell PSG520H synthesized signal generator, it was cheap for a reason...the frequency thumb wheels are hit and miss, and no modulation output, any info, service manuals or schematics would be greatly appreciated, would be very willing to pay for any copies

Regards Steve]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9363 Sat, 16 Nov 2024 13:14:29 +0000 DrStrangelove]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9363
http://www.nd6t.com/test/Cutoff%20Tester.htm

I've found lots of bits of junk to build it out of down the shed and in the office cum junk room.

Then I could test those 1000s of unmarked untested transistors I bought back in the 1970s that reside unregarded in a selection of pipe tobacco tins in said office cum junk room.

Then again, it would probably reside in said office cum junk room, as unregarded as are said transistors.]]>
http://www.nd6t.com/test/Cutoff%20Tester.htm

I've found lots of bits of junk to build it out of down the shed and in the office cum junk room.

Then I could test those 1000s of unmarked untested transistors I bought back in the 1970s that reside unregarded in a selection of pipe tobacco tins in said office cum junk room.

Then again, it would probably reside in said office cum junk room, as unregarded as are said transistors.]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9361 Wed, 13 Nov 2024 12:13:21 +0000 Bushbaby]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=9361 I bought this model which was owned from someone who I dealt with well on the original work to build these about 13/14 years ago who has now passed away.
It does appear that it has been dropped at some point and now needs repair. Perhaps in one respect, this will be a good project to get this working yet again.

Best Regards

Rob

 
  LC Sussex top.jpg (Size: 304.48 KB / Downloads: 30)
  broken board.jpg (Size: 200.03 KB / Downloads: 30)
  Detached cap.jpg (Size: 250.99 KB / Downloads: 28)
  Circuit board 2.jpg (Size: 190.93 KB / Downloads: 28)
  circuit board 1.jpg (Size: 320.42 KB / Downloads: 30) ]]> I bought this model which was owned from someone who I dealt with well on the original work to build these about 13/14 years ago who has now passed away.
It does appear that it has been dropped at some point and now needs repair. Perhaps in one respect, this will be a good project to get this working yet again.

Best Regards

Rob

 
  LC Sussex top.jpg (Size: 304.48 KB / Downloads: 30)
  broken board.jpg (Size: 200.03 KB / Downloads: 30)
  Detached cap.jpg (Size: 250.99 KB / Downloads: 28)
  Circuit board 2.jpg (Size: 190.93 KB / Downloads: 28)
  circuit board 1.jpg (Size: 320.42 KB / Downloads: 30) ]]>