https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/ Mon, 13 Apr 2026 04:44:24 +0000 MyBB https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8896 Sun, 02 Oct 2022 13:43:45 +0000 Radio Fixer]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8896 Radio Grille Cloth | Vintage designs authentic-looking speaker fabric

Both (#1 and #11) are very open and acoustically transparent with a little stretch which helps getting a taut result.

He packs in a strong plain envelope, no "Radio Gizz Me" stickers on them to attract attention and postage was $7 each as I ordered separately.

Gary]]> Radio Grille Cloth | Vintage designs authentic-looking speaker fabric

Both (#1 and #11) are very open and acoustically transparent with a little stretch which helps getting a taut result.

He packs in a strong plain envelope, no "Radio Gizz Me" stickers on them to attract attention and postage was $7 each as I ordered separately.

Gary]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8084 Fri, 18 Sep 2020 15:27:33 +0000 Radio Fixer]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8084
thanks Gary]]>
thanks Gary]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8076 Fri, 11 Sep 2020 10:02:04 +0000 Radio Fixer]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=8076
Not going to use it for French Polishing but just as a sealer coat and to improve adhesion of glass paints.

thanks Gary]]>
Not going to use it for French Polishing but just as a sealer coat and to improve adhesion of glass paints.

thanks Gary]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7813 Thu, 05 Mar 2020 17:21:17 +0000 Cleggy]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=7813
I cannot yet say much about the petrol-resisting side of it, but I will say that I have never  found an aerosol spray can so easy to use and get a really good finish. It seems remarkably run-resistant and self-levelling and seems to produce what I think is called a high-build (thick ?) coating. It's also very quick to dry, but I did leave it in the airing cupboard overnight because, as with all paints, drying and curing  are not the same thing   .

Prices on the internet seem to range from about £6 to £20 for a 400ml can - got mine on ebay at the lowest end of that range. There is not much technical backup for it on the net - it is apparently made in Malyasia.

Still at the bottom of the learning curve with it, but very impressed so far.

C]]>
I cannot yet say much about the petrol-resisting side of it, but I will say that I have never  found an aerosol spray can so easy to use and get a really good finish. It seems remarkably run-resistant and self-levelling and seems to produce what I think is called a high-build (thick ?) coating. It's also very quick to dry, but I did leave it in the airing cupboard overnight because, as with all paints, drying and curing  are not the same thing   .

Prices on the internet seem to range from about £6 to £20 for a 400ml can - got mine on ebay at the lowest end of that range. There is not much technical backup for it on the net - it is apparently made in Malyasia.

Still at the bottom of the learning curve with it, but very impressed so far.

C]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6916 Thu, 31 May 2018 08:34:07 +0000 Radio Fixer]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=6916

Seems most of the low cost one are rotary whereas I would have thought random orbital would have been safer.


thanks for any advice   Gary]]>

Seems most of the low cost one are rotary whereas I would have thought random orbital would have been safer.


thanks for any advice   Gary]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5817 Sun, 18 Sep 2016 13:22:22 +0000 SurreyNick]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5817
I have two old Pye 'Sunrise' radios which I want to partially restore and sell on to fund some other projects.  The first is this Pye AC4D Twin Triple from 1930.  In its day, quite a good radio by all accounts.

The cabinet on this one has suffered a bit.  Both sides have splits and due to warping of the base it is literally pulling itself apart (see pics).  I had hoped the base, which is affixed to the bottom of the cabinet, would come away easily.  It doesn't.  The glue is well bonded.  Ideally, I'd get the base off, plane it flat, re-glue the finger joints and then re-affix it.  However, I am worried I will do more damage trying to get the base off, than just leaving well alone.

If the base is stuck with hide glue I was wondering if applying heat from inside the cabinet through the thinner cabinet bottom panel might sufficiently loosen the glue so I can prise the base off?

Has anyone here encountered and tackled such a problem before?

Thanks

Nick


  Pye AC4D Twin Triple.JPG (Size: 301.97 KB / Downloads: 40)
  Right 1.JPG (Size: 1.23 MB / Downloads: 43)
  Right 2.JPG (Size: 1.23 MB / Downloads: 29)
  Left.JPG (Size: 1.1 MB / Downloads: 28) ]]>
I have two old Pye 'Sunrise' radios which I want to partially restore and sell on to fund some other projects.  The first is this Pye AC4D Twin Triple from 1930.  In its day, quite a good radio by all accounts.

The cabinet on this one has suffered a bit.  Both sides have splits and due to warping of the base it is literally pulling itself apart (see pics).  I had hoped the base, which is affixed to the bottom of the cabinet, would come away easily.  It doesn't.  The glue is well bonded.  Ideally, I'd get the base off, plane it flat, re-glue the finger joints and then re-affix it.  However, I am worried I will do more damage trying to get the base off, than just leaving well alone.

If the base is stuck with hide glue I was wondering if applying heat from inside the cabinet through the thinner cabinet bottom panel might sufficiently loosen the glue so I can prise the base off?

Has anyone here encountered and tackled such a problem before?

Thanks

Nick


  Pye AC4D Twin Triple.JPG (Size: 301.97 KB / Downloads: 40)
  Right 1.JPG (Size: 1.23 MB / Downloads: 43)
  Right 2.JPG (Size: 1.23 MB / Downloads: 29)
  Left.JPG (Size: 1.1 MB / Downloads: 28) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5068 Thu, 15 Oct 2015 16:12:56 +0000 SurreyNick]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5068
As you can probably see from picture 1 below, the old speaker cloth was beyond salvaging. It had perished in several places and was so threadbare it was coming apart. Parts of the cloth was stuck directly to the wood of the cabinet in places, but I don't know if this was by design or accident, because in other places it was loose, resulting in a disheveled appearance. Do you think it would have been glued directly to the cabinet so as to be nice and tight? If so, what is the method to get the best result?

If you look again at the picture you can see that a narrow cork strip 1/4" wide was pinned and glued to the cabinet in a circle the same diameter as the speaker cone. Then as you can see from picture 2 the speaker grill cloth was glued to the inside edge of this and a strip of felt the same width as the cork was glued on top. The rim of the speaker cone sat on top this felt. The cork and felt was also beyond saving, so I have bought new. I just need to know how to get the best result with the grill cloth.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Nick

  Speaker Cloth Damage 01.jpg (Size: 264.77 KB / Downloads: 67)
  Speaker Cloth Damage 03.JPG (Size: 1.34 MB / Downloads: 56)
  Cabinet Unrestored 14.JPG (Size: 1.11 MB / Downloads: 57) ]]>
As you can probably see from picture 1 below, the old speaker cloth was beyond salvaging. It had perished in several places and was so threadbare it was coming apart. Parts of the cloth was stuck directly to the wood of the cabinet in places, but I don't know if this was by design or accident, because in other places it was loose, resulting in a disheveled appearance. Do you think it would have been glued directly to the cabinet so as to be nice and tight? If so, what is the method to get the best result?

If you look again at the picture you can see that a narrow cork strip 1/4" wide was pinned and glued to the cabinet in a circle the same diameter as the speaker cone. Then as you can see from picture 2 the speaker grill cloth was glued to the inside edge of this and a strip of felt the same width as the cork was glued on top. The rim of the speaker cone sat on top this felt. The cork and felt was also beyond saving, so I have bought new. I just need to know how to get the best result with the grill cloth.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Nick

  Speaker Cloth Damage 01.jpg (Size: 264.77 KB / Downloads: 67)
  Speaker Cloth Damage 03.JPG (Size: 1.34 MB / Downloads: 56)
  Cabinet Unrestored 14.JPG (Size: 1.11 MB / Downloads: 57) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5052 Fri, 09 Oct 2015 16:43:41 +0000 SurreyNick]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=5052
I could easily understand it if the front panel was intended to be in burr wood, or if there was some reason why a solid hardwood panel couldn't be used. But neither of these things apply. Why make the rest of the cabinet in solid oak, but put a plywood panel on the front? I'm convinced the panel is original, as is the veneer too.

I'm at a loss to explain it.

Nick

  Cabinet Unrestored 11.JPG (Size: 217.87 KB / Downloads: 71)
  Cabinet Unrestored 13.JPG (Size: 233.76 KB / Downloads: 58)
  Cabinet Unrestored 06.JPG (Size: 1.24 MB / Downloads: 57)
  Cabinet Unrestored 04.JPG (Size: 1.19 MB / Downloads: 55) ]]>
I could easily understand it if the front panel was intended to be in burr wood, or if there was some reason why a solid hardwood panel couldn't be used. But neither of these things apply. Why make the rest of the cabinet in solid oak, but put a plywood panel on the front? I'm convinced the panel is original, as is the veneer too.

I'm at a loss to explain it.

Nick

  Cabinet Unrestored 11.JPG (Size: 217.87 KB / Downloads: 71)
  Cabinet Unrestored 13.JPG (Size: 233.76 KB / Downloads: 58)
  Cabinet Unrestored 06.JPG (Size: 1.24 MB / Downloads: 57)
  Cabinet Unrestored 04.JPG (Size: 1.19 MB / Downloads: 55) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4720 Thu, 30 Apr 2015 16:57:04 +0000 boater sam]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4720 A quick check showed a rotten rubber mains lead, speaker leads cut, lots of dust, and a completely wrong tuner string set up.
Powered up it produced some noises. A change of THE capacitor restored the correct bias on the UL41 output valve. Then realised that the UBC41 and the UF41 had been swapped round! Put right, it works!
Even the UL41 is OK.
Removing the speaker and support panel which also carries the tuning scale glass and frame I realised that the front fret was a strange perforated gold plastic moulding which is too small all round for the rebate in the cabinet front. It looks like something that should be in the front of a transistor radio. I have an early PAM TB60 tranny with similar stuff.
Clearly not original, distorted and a lousy fit, but what should be there?
A look on the Radio Museum site shows a dark fabric looking fret across the whole front. 
The question is what it is and what it mounts on, is it speaker fabric and is it backed with a thin wood panel?
If anyone has one of these sets could they let me know please and  upload a good 'photo?
 ]]> A quick check showed a rotten rubber mains lead, speaker leads cut, lots of dust, and a completely wrong tuner string set up.
Powered up it produced some noises. A change of THE capacitor restored the correct bias on the UL41 output valve. Then realised that the UBC41 and the UF41 had been swapped round! Put right, it works!
Even the UL41 is OK.
Removing the speaker and support panel which also carries the tuning scale glass and frame I realised that the front fret was a strange perforated gold plastic moulding which is too small all round for the rebate in the cabinet front. It looks like something that should be in the front of a transistor radio. I have an early PAM TB60 tranny with similar stuff.
Clearly not original, distorted and a lousy fit, but what should be there?
A look on the Radio Museum site shows a dark fabric looking fret across the whole front. 
The question is what it is and what it mounts on, is it speaker fabric and is it backed with a thin wood panel?
If anyone has one of these sets could they let me know please and  upload a good 'photo?
 ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4715 Fri, 24 Apr 2015 18:51:43 +0000 boater sam]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4715 Found some lovely bottles, MU14, HR210, ARDD5, VT127, VT50A, CV1722, CV1120 etc. and then I found a very odd looking GT sized Int Octal glass bottle, a 923.
Numbered very clearly but cannot find any reference. Closest is 922 which is a photocell so I am assuming that this 923 is as well. Looks like a curved reflector with an electrode at the focus.
Can anyone elaborate on this?]]> Found some lovely bottles, MU14, HR210, ARDD5, VT127, VT50A, CV1722, CV1120 etc. and then I found a very odd looking GT sized Int Octal glass bottle, a 923.
Numbered very clearly but cannot find any reference. Closest is 922 which is a photocell so I am assuming that this 923 is as well. Looks like a curved reflector with an electrode at the focus.
Can anyone elaborate on this?]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4487 Mon, 01 Dec 2014 09:45:36 +0000 Old Sparky]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4487 https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4404 Thu, 21 Aug 2014 16:21:41 +0000 Radio Fixer]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4404
What it does is make a spray can have a pistol grip so that you don't have to hold down the little button. Snaps onto the spray can and away you go. I have used it and find it a definite improvement. The attachment to the can is secure.


  img269.jpg (Size: 105.73 KB / Downloads: 130)

Gary]]>
What it does is make a spray can have a pistol grip so that you don't have to hold down the little button. Snaps onto the spray can and away you go. I have used it and find it a definite improvement. The attachment to the can is secure.


  img269.jpg (Size: 105.73 KB / Downloads: 130)

Gary]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4043 Mon, 03 Feb 2014 16:02:14 +0000 Yorkie]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=4043
http://www.retrospecialist.co.uk/traditi...s-31-c.asp

Very good news, because for a while now, I think a lot have wondered how much longer Sid would solider on, and what would happen when he finally called it a day. Now we know!]]>
http://www.retrospecialist.co.uk/traditi...s-31-c.asp

Very good news, because for a while now, I think a lot have wondered how much longer Sid would solider on, and what would happen when he finally called it a day. Now we know!]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3430 Thu, 30 May 2013 20:07:55 +0000 Tedzed1]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3430 I have done all the electrical work on the chassis, and now need to move on to the record deck.

Only problem is the supporting plinth is quite bowed, and I was wondering the best way to go about remedying this, would it be feasable to try and straigten it out, or would a new plinth be better, the original one seems quite plyable.

Or possibly some supporting battons fixed to the underside to give it some support.

Sugestions will be most welcome.

  1369923533338.jpg (Size: 627.35 KB / Downloads: 84)

  1369923651325.jpg (Size: 522.71 KB / Downloads: 87)

  1369923620976.jpg (Size: 364.09 KB / Downloads: 86) ]]> I have done all the electrical work on the chassis, and now need to move on to the record deck.

Only problem is the supporting plinth is quite bowed, and I was wondering the best way to go about remedying this, would it be feasable to try and straigten it out, or would a new plinth be better, the original one seems quite plyable.

Or possibly some supporting battons fixed to the underside to give it some support.

Sugestions will be most welcome.

  1369923533338.jpg (Size: 627.35 KB / Downloads: 84)

  1369923651325.jpg (Size: 522.71 KB / Downloads: 87)

  1369923620976.jpg (Size: 364.09 KB / Downloads: 86) ]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3359 Mon, 06 May 2013 12:21:45 +0000 Refugee]]> https://golbornevintageradio.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=3359 This is how I went about it.
I cleaned up the damaged area and established that the broken bits were well gone so it is a rebuild.
I had to find a bit of insulated wire the correct size to keep the hinge pin hole open.

  DSCF7677.JPG (Size: 72.66 KB / Downloads: 86)
I made a mold out of some repair putty that I had tried while making my first attempt at a repair.
The mold was oiled so that it can slide along the hinge. I had to slide it up the hinge as I filled in the missing material and poked out any bubbles as I went along until the mold was level with the end of the hinge. Then I had to wait until it had set so that I could remove the mold and use it for the other end of the hinge. This took a while as it is the stronger slow setting type of epoxy resin I have been using.

  DSCF7672.JPG (Size: 41.7 KB / Downloads: 79)

  DSCF7680.JPG (Size: 68.97 KB / Downloads: 78)
Once I had removed the mold from the second end I left the resin to set fully so that it was hard enough for trimming and final shaping.
The hinge pins fitted perfectly without any further work on the holes at both ends.

  DSCF7683.JPG (Size: 24.26 KB / Downloads: 76)

  DSCF7686.JPG (Size: 48.82 KB / Downloads: 88)
The cover fitted well and I am not sure if I am even going to paint the repaired area as I think it looks quite cute with the hinge pin visible through the clear resin.
I will have to go over it with some T-cut and see how it looks.

  DSCF7698.JPG (Size: 56.96 KB / Downloads: 78)

  DSCF7700.JPG (Size: 54.32 KB / Downloads: 78)

  DSCF7707.JPG (Size: 35.26 KB / Downloads: 86) ]]> This is how I went about it.
I cleaned up the damaged area and established that the broken bits were well gone so it is a rebuild.
I had to find a bit of insulated wire the correct size to keep the hinge pin hole open.

  DSCF7677.JPG (Size: 72.66 KB / Downloads: 86)
I made a mold out of some repair putty that I had tried while making my first attempt at a repair.
The mold was oiled so that it can slide along the hinge. I had to slide it up the hinge as I filled in the missing material and poked out any bubbles as I went along until the mold was level with the end of the hinge. Then I had to wait until it had set so that I could remove the mold and use it for the other end of the hinge. This took a while as it is the stronger slow setting type of epoxy resin I have been using.

  DSCF7672.JPG (Size: 41.7 KB / Downloads: 79)

  DSCF7680.JPG (Size: 68.97 KB / Downloads: 78)
Once I had removed the mold from the second end I left the resin to set fully so that it was hard enough for trimming and final shaping.
The hinge pins fitted perfectly without any further work on the holes at both ends.

  DSCF7683.JPG (Size: 24.26 KB / Downloads: 76)

  DSCF7686.JPG (Size: 48.82 KB / Downloads: 88)
The cover fitted well and I am not sure if I am even going to paint the repaired area as I think it looks quite cute with the hinge pin visible through the clear resin.
I will have to go over it with some T-cut and see how it looks.

  DSCF7698.JPG (Size: 56.96 KB / Downloads: 78)

  DSCF7700.JPG (Size: 54.32 KB / Downloads: 78)

  DSCF7707.JPG (Size: 35.26 KB / Downloads: 86) ]]>