Havnt found this despite a long crawl through the Web and Farnell.
Want a board thats laid out to take IC packages with the standard 5v and 0V power tracks but can mount some sort of connector. This can be solder to board pads but needs to mate with a removable other part. Need about 20 connections.
Using those solder on screw connectors is a pain taking out all the wires for extending the circuit.
Used to use them at work back yonks
thanks Gary
Bit of a left-field thought, but have you considered designing your own and sending it to
PCBway - very cheap and you get exactly what you want...
Thanks Jeffery and Nick.
A board at Roadrunner may do what I want. Just need to sort out the connector. It seems 96 way is standard which is more than enough, just need to track down a mating pair. Anyway I have asked them.
I dont want to try to get my head around producing Gerber files Nick at this time. Its simply a one off board and just to handcraft it maybe the quickest way. Not easy but used to do a lot but harder now as the eyes arent so good ...
Will search more using another keyword "Eurocard" which I hadnt used before.
Gary
They are rather expensive. As Nick says, you could have something custom made for less.
The Eurocard boards all take DIN 41612 connectors which are very common. The full 3 row, 96 way seems like overkill for your application. You can get them with just the outer rows populated which would be easier to use. I've probably got a box of assorted DIN 41612 connectors but finding it is another matter. RS, Farnell etc will have a huge range. The main problem will be deciding which ones to buy.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_41612
If you don't mind wiring up the power rails yourself, there seem to be lots of cheaper Eurocard prototyping boards.
Thanks Jeffery
Look into that.
Gary
My favourite prototyping medium is perforated board without any copper at all. 0.1" grid and double ended "vero" pins. I run a heavy 0V busbar round the edge and work from there. Tidy it is not, but it gets the job done. Much better than verobaord with copper strips in my opinion. A roll of thin insulated wire, as used for wire wrapping and a roll of thin (26swg or so) tinned copper wire are essential accessories.
Sometimes I've used similar boards with a "colander" ground plane. This gives excellent high frequency results.
I haven't done any valve based prototyping but I'd be tempted by single sided copper clad fibreglass. Possibly even double sided. It would have the grounding performance of a proper chassis. An 0V connections are easy to solder down. Also easy to punch and drill holes. An inexpensive set of stepped drills would be veryuseful here, as in many other jobs:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stepped-Drill-B...+Drill+Bit
A couple of photos.
The first one is a RGB to PAL coder I prototyped in 1987. It was actually the first design I did for a client when I went self-employed. I powered it a year or 2 ago, for the first time in 20+ years, and it all worked apart from a failed CMOS chip which I replaced. The underside is largely wired with thin tinned copper wire. Sleeved as required. It looks pretty horrible but wasn't easy to access for a photo.
The other is my Test Card C generator which lives in my lab's rack bay. Probably built in the 1990s on colander ground plane board though that wasn't really needed. I probably just had some to hand. I think the underside is wired mainly with fine enamelled wire which comes on small reels to use with a dispenser pen. (Roadrunner?). I didn't use the associated combs to hold the wiring. I think it's loosely based on Dave Grant's design but modified to use different EPROMs and arranged to lock to my lab sync pulses. It's run without failure. Of course it will smoke next time I turn it on.
That first one with a mix of IC's and passives must have been a beast to build and check: hats off to you. Most of mine have been nearly all IC packages and for that a board that lays out for them is the best. I use a Kynar insulated 30 swg solid wire that strips easy and solders well. Although burn proof it can be stripped by running the chisel point of the iron down it or using good strippers.
All getting harder as eyes not so good and maybe need new glasses but another prob could be cataracts. But keep on going, plenty of time and if I just do a couple of hours in a day, before the strain gets to me, thats OK.
thanks Gary