Golborne Vintage Radio

This US tape has been recommended on ARF. This has a "PaintBlock" edge and comes in a nice green plastic container. It is now being sold at B&Q for about £7.50 or so.

I bought one to try on a cabinet I'm doing. It certainly blocks the cellulose toner if applied in light coats. I'm not sure that its much better than the standard blue tape that's a lot cheaper though. It has a lot of tack, as does the blue, and I wouldn't trust it over newly applied finish. I tend to use the blue for that and rub a length of it down my shirt a number of times first. But I also bought a roll of "Low Tack", comes in bright yellow. I think this allows a little creep, so even lighter coats. I'm going to try that one again on the real thing as I only tried it on a test piece of melamine faced board, may not be the same. They all creep if you inadvertently apply too much in my experience. Possibly they are not really intended for cellulose.

Gary

Research shows they are intended for domestic paints.. water based. The gel in the adhesive is the same as used in disposable nappies.

When I was much younger I used to be a bit of a model maker.. what we did back then was to use a different paint which was easy to remove completely as a mask. Poster paint vs humbrol matt or gloss worked well and when washed off left a sharp edge.

Don't water-colour artists use some stuff that looks like Copy-dex for this? A trip to an art shop may be in order, or the usual e-Bay/Google research.

Well the advantage of tape is its quick to put down. Yes! Frog, is as you say Paula for domestic paints (latex, emulsion and maybe oil) but ARF members have been using it with acrylics and toners and reporting success. I tried it again yesterday, again with toner, and it does work... a little creep in the odd place but overall not bad. A tiny bit of clean up with a blade sorted those out. Shan't buy it again though.

Using another "easy to removable paint" isnt an option on wood... it would get in the grain. OK on smooth plastic.

Well. I've never tried painting a radio with water colours. However, you can buy liquid masking and Yes! I've tried it. A couple or more coats are needed and of course how do you get a straight edge which is easy with tape? I bought it for some complex masking around curves but was not impressed with it. I suppose its possibly not intended for acrylics or nitro-cellulose. Never bothered again. Went back to the flexible tape or cutting standard down to very thin bendable strips.

Gary

acrylics are water based.. normally pigmented pva

cabinet material not specified in original post

To get a totally sharp non bleed edge on porous materials like wood the surface has to be completely sealed and flat before pigments applied.

True Paula... it doesnt say wood but it does say cellulose toner. That's only used on wooden cabinets so there was a clue there. "Smile" .

The acrylics I use are not water based but some sort of spirit... they take cellulose thinners to clean up. I was referring to the cans sold in Halfords.

I have used water based, artists acrylics, for wound touch up but they wont cover some fillers fully and a second attempt wont work over a lacquer spray.

Yes! you are quite correct on the wood needing to be smooth first and so I always apply tape over a grain filled and sanded surface.

Enough... cheers Gary