Ok
I am up to the part where the cabinet of a radio needs some veneer letting in.
[attachment=445]
you can see the grain of the original veneer runs vertically.
Now when i look at the veneers sheets I have and hold them with the grain to match, it is against the natural bend of the sheet.
If I go with the natural bend of the sheet, the graining will be horizontal.
So do I use a piece to let in with little markings and use the natural bend of the sheet or is there another way?
cheers Mark
cut a pretty close matching piece to size then "steam" it.. it should bend easily and once cooled will hold it's shape. Thats how they did it when new.
Thanks for that Paula
I shall report back on the progress.
cheers Mark
Hi,
I agree with Paula that veneer can be bent but it is difficult to get the degree of bend just right and in this instance once the veneer has been bent then pressure would be needed over the patch to keep it in close contact with the substrate until the glue set up.. Further problems would be in matching the veneer grain and also I believe a veneer patch in such a position would be very hard to blend in.
One tip I read quite a while ago but not tried myself is to match the grain of a patch of veneer as closely as possible making the veneer patch slightly larger all around then simply glue the patch into place using plenty of pressure; apply glue to the opening; lay on the new veneer patch ensuring it is correctly positioned; over lay with greaseproof paper; over lay again with a thin sheet of rubber; add the pressure pads and clamp tightly. Allow the glue to set overnight then remove the clamps etc and the patch should have been forced into close contact with the substrate but stand proud at the overlap. Gently remove excess veneer using abrasive paper with a backing block of wood and the actual patch joints should blend in very well as they will not be straight line cuts which always stand out.
As I say; I've never tried this method but it sounds highly feasible to me and worth experimenting with.
I recently bent my first veneer with great success and a similar method could be used assuming access is possible for a pair of formers to add clamping pressure. The method can be viewed here at post #115.
http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=62371&page=6
[attachment=501] [attachment=502] [attachment=503]
Missing veneer. Filler applied. Filler levelled.
I like veneering using hot hide glue but patching damaged veneer is very difficult and a good alternative for you Mark and much easier would be to use a good quality wood filler to make good the missing veneer then colour match with good quality artist’s acrylic paint; finishing with French polish. With patience such a repair could be almost invisible; I know because I did such a repair whilst restoring my Ultra Tiger cabinet. The pictures below show the successful repair and this was my first attempt at using filler and paint. Do not use auto filler as the paint didn’t adhere to this when I tried it; I used a two pack wood filler.
I hope this is of use and good luck.
Kind regards, Col.
[attachment=504] [attachment=505] [attachment=506]
Filler blended in. Ready for French polishing. Beautiful cabinet.
Hi Col,
What two part wood filler do you recommend as I've just bought a Bush VHF72 with some small gouges out of the veneer that I would like to work on.
Do you recommend treating all woodies for worm as a matter of urgency when buying a radio?
Thanks
Rob
Rob
I personally will only treat a cabinet for worm, if there is evidence of worm (flight holes) and saw type dust inside, woodworm treatments are expensive.
I have a fair few radios, and only 2 needed treatment, as the signs were obvious.
cheers Mark
Hi,
Thanks for asking Rob; I use two pack Ronseal Wood Repair. High performance wood filler; 275g tin. It worked very well on the Ultra Tiger and accepted the artists acrylic paints. However I don't like the flat sleeve containing the hardener much preferring a tube but it's only a smile gripe as it does work.
http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/high-p...ood-filler
I agree with Mark regarding treating for woodworm; I dislike using such chemicals at the best of times and have only ever had to treat two sets for worm in the last ten years; I'm more concerned that having given a set a good dose of treatment what effect it would have on me with subsequent work like sanding down or through the skin by handling the cabinet.
Enjoy working on your Bush Rob and the best of luck with it.
Kind regards, Col.
I only used to treat flight holes for worm with a Cuprinol injector can but after reading Rodger Grants article (BVWS Philips set) about painting the whole of the inside I decided it was a good idea. After all squirting the holes is only closing the stable door.
I too was put off about the price of the treatment only being able to get 1L of Cuprinol at B&Q for £18. But then I found some by Rentokil for £5.36 for 250mL in my local hardware store (the chems are prob much the same). Used it on the inside of one cabinet that is in progress... very low smell, in use, and none later. Leaves a pleasant shine to the surface. Squirted the few flight holes obviously.
I'm not concerned about handling the cabinet after its dry, we live in such a nanny state its unlikely to be harmful and of course we are all good boys and wash our hands before...
Gary
Get rid of the old bottle Jamie... a friend, well he was, gave me some of the old stuff. Stunk like a skunk, whatever they smell like. Pretty bad I'm told.